Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Step 1

Purchase wheel stud from any autoparts store..

Step 2

This is for the rear wheel, for this the car will need to be in neutral with the handbrake off so make sure its not going to roll away by chocking up wheels then jack up rear of car and put on jackstands.

Step 3

Remove wheel

DSC02681-1.jpg

Step 4

Remove caliper by undoing these 2 bolts

DSC02682.jpg

Step 5

Remove disc, if it doesn't come off easily find 2 bolts that fit into the holes here, then turn them until the disc pops out

DSC02683.jpg

Step 6

If you line the stud up with this gap then give it a good whack or 2 with a hammer it will pop out.

DSC02684.jpg

Step 7

Put new stud in, bit tricky but can be done

DSC02685.jpg

Step 8

Now you have to pull the stud through, its a tight fit, to do this I put a large nut behind the regular nut. Then tighten it until the stud pops into place

DSC02687.jpg

DSC02686.jpg

DSC02688.jpg

Step 9

Then put it back together, give caliper a clean with brakleen or some degreaser, put a quick coat of paint on the disc and its good as new

DSC02689.jpg

Step 10

Replace shiny wheel after a solid hour of polishing >_<

DSC02690.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357402-replace-broken-wheel-stud/
Share on other sites

Thanks alot man!

I'm deff going to try this one out.

But quick question, is it possible to pull the new stud all the way out when your pulling it through the hole? Or is there something to stop you pulling it all the way out? like a grove or a stop on the end of the stud your putting in.

Thanks alot man!

I'm deff going to try this one out.

But quick question, is it possible to pull the new stud all the way out when your pulling it through the hole? Or is there something to stop you pulling it all the way out? like a grove or a stop on the end of the stud your putting in.

Yeah it will stop it has a flat end on it..

Awesome tutorial I thought I had to replace the entire hub but this is much easier and cheaper cheers.

When I pulled it apart I was thinking I may have to take the hub off too

Actually if you look in one of the pics i had taken the hubnut cap off, i went looking for a giant socket to fit but couldnt find one :D

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

How tight should the new stud be going in????

Mine was so tight i ended up stripping thread (while using the nut to pull it through) luckily i purchased an extra, so i went onto a different hole (i have 3 to replace) but that was the same so i stopped before i ruined that one too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...