Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you thought about Soda Blasting? I've had the paint blasted off some plastic grill parts and it looks great. I've seen it strip the ink off a coke can and the can was fine. I'll post some photos when I get home later to show you the results. I'll also find the name of the bloke that did it for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5714641
Share on other sites

cheers , yes I was considering soda blasting there's a guy in carrum downs does it..

But I ended up going to paint mobile in dandy , he recomended some industrial paint stripper and it worked a treat..

I guess the stripper I was using just wasn't toxic enough to strip powdercoat :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5714729
Share on other sites

There's paint stripper and there's paint stripper. The former being a clear, glue looking stuff that seems to just fade paint after half an hour. The latter closely resembling lava in both appearance and touch that seems to make shit bubble and peel after 5 minutes. Thick gloves = necessity lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5716239
Share on other sites

yeah thats the stuff, thick brown goo the can sizzles when u shake it..

I tried 3m spray stripper. 20$ for 2 cans did nothing

some green stuff from bunnings 40$ a litre was a little better but still no good.

25$ for half a litre of the good stuff from paint supplies store, i used half a tin and job done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5717705
Share on other sites

Yeah, you paint the stuff on with a paintbrush :)

You had any splash on your skin? Instant BURN.

The one the smells like ammonia?

We used to put a drop on our palms and see who could hold it out the longest...

but i've always thought they wouldn't work on powdercoating because its like baked on plastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5719110
Share on other sites

No, the one that you smell and it burns your nose just because of the fumes lol. There's no way you could put this one on your palm and see who can hold it there the longest - it starts burning instantly and leaves something of a nasty chemical burn after 5-10 seconds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357458-acid-bathing/#findComment-5719487
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...