Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was walking my dog in the park on Buchananans, so i seriously doubt you would have seen me even if i was waving. you were heading home i guess. twas right on dusk.

come join us one night brad?

we're gonna give northlakes a go next wednesday for a change. :) heading to the pub near Dan murphy's at 7pm. come one come all. :thumbsup:

Yeah I noticed on first crank on saturday morning and shut down before it ran. Sucked coz I had no tools and couldn't check it out properly. Doing a few checks before work in the morning and if it's all good I'll get to work and fix it that night.

2nd'd State of Origin is priority. On another note, I am diging the style of the S15 I may buy one with a worked RB25 just to keep it RB powered but I am kinda over the 32 it's fun and all but it's time for something else. I can't find a really good R34 not for lack of looking I have also been looking at....supra's but there are so few quality imports that grab my attention and I can't be bothered starting fresh with a GTR.

Yeah man and a photo and whatever info is available I am leaning towards either a worked R34 or an S15 at this point. Had a mild obsession with the new Impreza WRX hatch today but I think I am over that. Might have to bring the lappy along to our next meet and see what you boys think of some of the selections.

ewwww new WRX, esp after driving it on video games compared to the old ones.....seems heavy and stupid. worst AWD ever

supra rocks. as long as its manual and turbo. R34 non GTR doesnt do it for me. preffer the look of the 33 GTST. S15 is sexy. but pricey compared to a liner.

origin 2 is the most important...but this is the series decider. (not that i watch footy at all other than origin)

looking at a supra tomorrow (338hp atw) a r34 skyline on sat arvo (unknown power but heaps of mods) my dream S15 on sunday (420hp atw will do 500 with a tune) and that leaves me with one more to look at when I can arrange a time.

I may be jumping ship to the Silvia family. That is unless I can find an awesome R34 instead of my R32. I will be selling off my 32 now as well.

wouldn't consider a wagon :) ?

04012008.jpg

ewwww new WRX, esp after driving it on video games compared to the old ones.....seems heavy and stupid. worst AWD ever

supra rocks. as long as its manual and turbo. R34 non GTR doesnt do it for me. preffer the look of the 33 GTST. S15 is sexy. but pricey compared to a liner.

origin 2 is the most important...but this is the series decider. (not that i watch footy at all other than origin)

toyota vs subaru - nuff said.

sounds like clint has his mind made up to buy a new car.

back to the meeting idea then aye?? so back to carseldine next week to meet chris again?? the try Northlakes the week after?

i think sticking with the wednesday is still a good idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...