Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title says, when im stationary, when the car is cold (no issues when engine is warm) when the clutch is out not in gear, the idle is fine, but when i clutch in and engage first, while stile staying stationary, the revs drop about 50-100 rpm, what causes this? and its weird how it doesnt do this when the engine is warm.

any ideas?

At the top of the clutch pedal there is a small pushrod that gets pushed into the master cylinder. This rod can be adjusted as clutches wear out etc. Have a look at this push rod. U will need a light to see it. Then with ur hand see how much freeplay(travel without touching the mastercylinder) there is. If there is a bit, adjust the pushrod so it moves towards the master to remove most of the freeplay. Make sure there is still a tiny bit of freeplay or ur clutch will slip.

Doing this will act as if u are pushing the clutch pedal further. Which inturn disengages the clutch more and should fix the creeping issue u have

At the top of the clutch pedal there is a small pushrod that gets pushed into the master cylinder. This rod can be adjusted as clutches wear out etc. Have a look at this push rod. U will need a light to see it. Then with ur hand see how much freeplay(travel without touching the mastercylinder) there is. If there is a bit, adjust the pushrod so it moves towards the master to remove most of the freeplay. Make sure there is still a tiny bit of freeplay or ur clutch will slip.

Doing this will act as if u are pushing the clutch pedal further. Which inturn disengages the clutch more and should fix the creeping issue u have

cool, thanks mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...