Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Isnt it just the blade design that differentiates these from purpose built drop saws?

whats the price compared to brobo's or even the 2nd hand ones that pop up on grays etc?

nah its not the same

its classed as a cold saw and doesnt use coolant

im told its almost sparkless and the cuts will only just get warm

they run at about half the speed of a friction saw

price wise they are about 3-4 price of a friction saw

I picked up a brobo for $500, they pop up s/h occasionally. Much better than a carbide saw and cheaper as the blades only cost $20 to sharpen.

I would like to see what one of these cuts stainless pipe like though, could be perfect for alloy too.

Buy a brobo or if you can find one even a 2nd hand cold cutting saw from hare and Forbes.

I have a few brobo saws now and a dewalt type drop saw. The brobo gets used daily the drop saw sits under the bench.

A well sharpened blade will take on stainless fine when using soluable cutting oil.

They don't like hardened materials like an abrasive grinding disc does though.

I may part with my 10inch brobo for decent money. I have

a 12 and 15 inch machine as well which does most of the work.

For a square and repeatable cut you need decent clamping which those portable drop saws just don't have

And like someone mentioned the high speed steel blades can be sharpened cheaply or yourself if you have patience.

I do my own sharpening now, I have a few blades of each size and in spare time sharpen the blunt ones ready to be used when needed.

Over time the cost of abrasive friction discs or carbide blades adds up and the brobo pays for itself

The brobo cuts stainless well, but it still bites occasionally, and it can spin in the vice due to the fact it is polished. For large pipe, 3.5 inch and over you should probably have something solid inside the pipe where its clamped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...