Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per the Topic my aircon blows hot air if its set any higher then 18.

i've ran diagnostics on it.

It reported that the there was a short with the refrigerant temp sensor (-27)

But when i read the i got the following readings from the sensors 5 > 25 > 26 > 20 >46 (this being the refrigerant sensor)

Where can i locate the sensor to see if it needs the terminals cleaned or something.

Any solutions or anyone come accross this before, what did you do to resolve it?

Does this also happen with your fan?

Mine blows warm air even with the unit entirely off!

Hard to explain but there is a flap, controlled by an actuator (motor), which when open allows air through the heater core (warming it up) & when shut diverts the air straight out the vents bypassing the heater core. This is how you get hot or cold air...

Think my (& your) actuator is stuffed.

In my case I have to have fan on with temp set to FC (by holding down cold when at 18deg) to have anything but warm air. Bit of a pain...

Haven't looked into it much yet but worst case would be a second-hand unit from a wreckers or the original could possibly even be fixed.

Let me know what you end up doing.

In my case I have to have fan on with temp set to FC (by holding down cold when at 18deg) to have anything but warm air.

I had to do this last night if it wasnt on FC it would start blowing warm air... not going to be that much of a pain with winter coming up.

An Air con specialist should be able to sort this out?

As per the Topic my aircon blows hot air if its set any higher then 18.

i've ran diagnostics on it.

It reported that the there was a short with the refrigerant temp sensor (-27)

But when i read the i got the following readings from the sensors 5 > 25 > 26 > 20 >46 (this being the refrigerant sensor)

Where can i locate the sensor to see if it needs the terminals cleaned or something.

Any solutions or anyone come accross this before, what did you do to resolve it?

If your air con is cold on 18 but warm on all other temperatures then it is most likely the sensor behind the dash on the left hand side of the steering wheel (It is on 33's pretty sure same spot on 32's)

Its a little grille, couple of slots if you would like to call that.

Sometimes if you pull the dash off and put it back on you can forget to plug the sensor or the hose back on. If you pull the dash out you will see what I'm talking about. there should be a hose (just a rubber thin hose, it shouldnt be hard should be nice and soft) and a plug that goes into a sensor, the sensor is around where the hose plugs in on your dash, you should see the place where the hose plugs in

See if that helps

Mine does a similar thing. 18 and it's cold, any other temp and this motor behind the dash kicks in intermittently blowing warm/cold air. It's so annoying. Also that sensor behind the dash I have also seen whilst fiddling behind the dash hehe

air blend door still has to work dependant on the set temperature and actual temperature

If the air con is set at 25 degrees and its 10 degrees then you dont want your air con to blow cool air do you?

The auto mode only adjusts the fan

You set the temperature on the climate control, climate control looks at inside temp, opens air blend door (hot/cold air mix) to output a temperature in relation to the inside temperature

E.g. Inside temp 10 Degrees, Set temp 25 degrees, warmer air will blow

Inside temp 30 degrees, set temp 25 degrees, cold air will blow

With the sensor disconnected the climate control assumes the minimum value for the sensor, therefore always produces hot air unless at 18 degrees celcius which is when the climate control assumes you want cold air. Just as at 32 degrees celcius it assumes you want hot air. Not sure about this for the R32's maybe they do this at FC and FH instead

Thats the end of my rant about air con, which I think is mostly right lol :)

32 GTR's (dunno bout the rest) have that issue with the dry joins on the actuator. Search for the 'paper trick' - should be able to find the thread. This basically means whereever the air mix door was when the dry joint occured, it's stuck there till you fix, search for it, I had this problem.

32 GTR's (dunno bout the rest) also have the cabin air temp sensor directly behind the fascia that goes aorund the centre console (radio, climate, etc) - Remove the facia and check the sensor at the bottom right is plugged in, and the hose behind it is connected to it to draw air through it. Also had this problem.

Now my aircon rocks. But my clutch sucks. :<

Mate, mine is hot no matter what i do, I will try FC but at the moment I am putting the Climate control back into the dash, the previous owner moved it to the glovebox for some wildly unknown f**king idea.

Mine was "professionally moved"

They professionally cut holes in a 10mm MDF sheet with what one can only assume was a pair of scissors, and glued carpet to the front of it.

It also had HKS EVC and SCRAMBLE modules set up this way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...