Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I recorded a video of the sound which my engine has been making well, since I noticed it which has been forever. I have no idea what it is but I am almost 100% sure its from the timing belt cover area. It disappears on revs then comes back. There is also another sound at the beginning of the sound which is like a ticking kind of sound. Also when you are listening to the main sound in the video, you will here yet another kind of strange sound, a higher pitch sound.

Anyone able to shed some light?

The sound will increase with revs but go at about 1400 - 1600rpm.

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358426-watch-video-and-help-me/
Share on other sites

Bearing noise of some kind, have you had your timing belt and idler bearings replaced yet? Could be a noisy idler bearing.

Another common source of noise I've found is the Air Conditioning pump, this one is easy to rule out / confirm, just remove the belt to the AC pump and see If the noise stops.

Hmm when I got the car the AC belt was disconnected but I never payed attention to it so ill check it out.

No idea if the belts been changed either. Damnit this is gonna cost me by the sound of it. Money that I don't have.

i wouldn't go jumping to conclusions just yet, even with the video you posted every reply you get is still going to be only a guess. best way would be to take it into a mechanic and get them to have a listen, its much easier to figure out the source of a noise when your there in person.

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone have ANY idea what this cricket like sound is? The first sound in the first video goes away when the back of the cam gear cover has pressure above the venting grooves so Ive gotta take that off and see whats what. But this sound at the bottom of the car is really annoying. It cant be heard while driving, only at idle. Any tap of the accelerator and the sound goes away.

Edited by SargeRX8

Well I found out what mine is so I suggest doing the same.

I went over every single bolt near the bottom of the engine to make sure it was tight and turned out one of the bolts on the alternator was loose and therefore the washer was vibrating causing the noise.

I found one bolt and washer loose tightened that. Also the lower pulley was loose. Tightened that and some sounds are gone! Also adjusted my cooler piping as it was touching the cam cover. Less noise up there too!

Still found a shitload of oil on the AC pump and the surrounding area. Pretty sure its the PS fluid. Gotta check that.

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...