Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic states. I can remember seeing them a while ago on hioctane.com but can't find them anymore. It was a plate that allowed you to use a rwd sump on the rb26 block. This would have been perfect for my planned application of a 26 in a 32 gts-t, but if they don't exist anymore then i'll have to find another way. Has anybody else seen them/know what i'm on about? Or did i just dream it up?

Cheers

Ron

Yea the 26 block has the holes that allow you to bolt a 20/25 sump pan on there but you have to fiddle with the pick up as it hits the baffles and a little to the front of the sump itself

Use the 26 sump and get it modded

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/233752-rb26-into-s13-silvia/page__st__20

I've got an rb26 sump modified for rwd if your interested. They can be a pain to modify due to steering rack clearance on the drivers side, and they tend to change shape if you don't bolt them to a block while welding.

yeah interesting. Only reason i wanted to use the adapter and a rwd sump was it would have been cheaper to put a high volume sump on, compared to a high volume/baffled gtr sump. Food for thought now anyway. I emailed hioctane - no response yet.

those sumps are for RB into BMW conversions to clear the bmw crossmember.. the pickup is also relocated to the rear of the sump.

it means we can have our own sump style to suit all rb20/25/26/30's with the small change to the sump ring to allow for the different oil pickup location on the rb26 block

Edited by kristafa

No wonder i couldn't find it using the word "girdle" in the search. It's listed with a typo as a "gridle". Nor does it have the word sump in it anywhere.

This is it.

Although i've gone off the idea now anyway. I think a modded gtr sump for rwd with a tomei baffle will be fine for my intended purposes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...