Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

What is a reasonable price to sell a R33 series 2 1996 model at? Non-turbo, Automatic.

Its currently turbo converted with a few mods, but I'm thinking of converting it back to NA if I can get a better price.

Had a quick browse on carsales and realised there is a shitload of R33s, all between 8-12k that are factory turbo and manual.

Lol yeah I also made a thread about whether to convert it from NA to turbo, which I did and it was a good decision considering the car runs well and is very fun to drive.

Edited by J3TR33

After a good browse on car sales, there aren't many NA's for sale, and even less series 2's or in black.

I am thinking a price of 10-11k in NA condition with some mods remaining would be a good price. What are people's thoughts?

Oh and i'l also have a complete turbo conversion for sale if i do go ahead.

Hmmm.

After a good browse on car sales, there aren't many NA's for sale, and even less series 2's or in black.

I am thinking a price of 10-11k in NA condition with some mods remaining would be a good price. What are people's thoughts?

Oh and i'l also have a complete turbo conversion for sale if i do go ahead.

Hmmm.

I think you'll stuggle for more than 8k to be honest. Given that every P-plater wants a manual, you're at a big disadvantage trying to get that much for an auto. Can get clean R34 autos for that much and manual R34's are going to as little as 13-14k these days and I know you said it's modded, but kids are stupid these days. They'll sooner spend a heap of money modding their stock car rather than save money from the beginning and buying a modified one.

Edited by Truffles

I think you'll stuggle for more than 8k to be honest. Given that every P-plater wants a manual, you're at a big disadvantage trying to get that much for an auto. Can get clean R34 autos for that much and manual R34's are going to as little as 13-14k these days and I know you said it's modded, but kids are stupid these days. They'll sooner spend a heap of money modding their stock car rather than save money from the beginning and buying a modified one.

Lol yeah I made that mistake once, not again. Seing as there are so many turbo R33's on the market, I think going back to the NA route I'l get more money with the car and parts that I sell.

Thanks truffles.

All I can say is good luck.

I've had two people interested in my car and one tyre kicker... I paid for the premium ad on carsales too.

I've got mine up for 11.5k which isn't too bad. Last guy had it up for 14 which was over priced.

  • 3 weeks later...

I got a non-turbo R33 (automatic) as well, and it's a series 2, I had my full license when I was purchasing it just because it's cheap and in good condition. But now I am really disapointed with the power, and considering on selling or swapping it, I would be really happy if someone likes to swap with a manual GTS-T, I'm even willing to pay more dollars to him if his vehicle is about the same condition as mine.....:(

Btw, my car has ran about 120,000km, 96 model in silver, how much do u guys think I can sell it reasonably...?

I got a non-turbo R33 (automatic) as well, and it's a series 2, I had my full license when I was purchasing it just because it's cheap and in good condition. But now I am really disapointed with the power, and considering on selling or swapping it, I would be really happy if someone likes to swap with a manual GTS-T, I'm even willing to pay more dollars to him if his vehicle is about the same condition as mine.....:(

Btw, my car has ran about 120,000km, 96 model in silver, how much do u guys think I can sell it reasonably...?

Sell it for 10-12k to some p plater and buy a gtst for 7-8? Pocket the difference or start on mods?

Sell it for 10-12k to some p plater and buy a gtst for 7-8? Pocket the difference or start on mods?

I don't have money to modify it... and I know it's much harder to sell a modified vehicle with a higher price

Still I can't believe anyone can sell a non-turbo R33 for 10-12k, coz even some non-turbo R34s are around the same price...

Sorry that was slightly exaggerated, the autos are a bit less but with decent kms and being a series 2 you should make some cash buying a series 1-2 gtst. I was saying spend the made money on mods, modding before selling is a waste.

Sorry that was slightly exaggerated, the autos are a bit less but with decent kms and being a series 2 you should make some cash buying a series 1-2 gtst. I was saying spend the made money on mods, modding before selling is a waste.

Thanx! I'll consider about it. btw, how much would the insurance be for Justcar if I bought a gts-t (almost a stock one)? and I'm 22 right now with full license.

I was 22 when I bought my gtt, it was $1900 for the first year, the second was $1600.

That's horrible price..... just comparing to the vehicle itself......

I only spent 400+ on my non turbo, now I think to pocket its slowness is a good advice from u :closedeyes:

That was for full comprehensive of course. You only spent 400 on an NA?! I spent more than that on a 90s camry when I was 20!

I see, urs was full comprehensive, that's why. I only bought the third party + steal and fire

So what about third party for a gts-t, how much u think it would cost?

Interesting, just did it for me on a 96 gts and gtst and 3rd party were both 292, and the comprehensive for gtst was $400 more at $1670 than the gts.

I guess it's just a basic number they use, the big costs only come up when you hit a ferrari anyways.

I personally wouldn't go 3rd party on a car worth more than 3 or 4k, it's just too much of a gamble. And if someone hits you it's far easier having your insurance company pay you quickly than chasing some douche through the courts trying to get payment (it's easy for the insurance companies who have lawyers on hand).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...