Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im now at that stage where im after a bigger turbo. At the moment im looking at three options

1. HKS 2540 - ive heard that in twin form these arent any better than 2530 on GTRs. Are they a good thing on an RB20DET (internally stock) OR like the GTR should you stick with the 2530.

2.HKS 2835 (internal wastegate type) This is my ideal preference at the moment but not sure if it will have sufficinet clearance on the stock manifold. Dont want to go to aftermarket high mount cause that will mean major revisions to inlet piping.

3. High flow factory by GCG.

Realistically i think i will go for the 2530/2540 , do these match factory oil/water lines or do ther require modification...people claim bolt on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/
Share on other sites

With the turbo comes a Bosch 044 fuel pump, surge tank & Mazda 550cc injectors (13B) with the factory computer re-tuned. Looking for about 220rwkw.

However when budget permits for some internals would like to have some redundancy and be able to get more hp without the need to again change the turbo.

Looking for a strong/ reliable (track days) engine that doesnt make power simply because of huge boost. Needs the tractable for slow 2nd gear corners, ie boost at 3000rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/#findComment-59480
Share on other sites

you are then going to need size and a ball bearing center. the hiflow is good for around 450 possibly 500 hp with the right combo. don't hope for much boost below 3500 If you want to make power up high. the stock internals with the right injectors

afm can handel 250 rwkw possibly more with a metal heads gasket . but on the track I would be looking at the 220 you nomiated. for reliability.

cams are another way you can gain some good power around a 260o apexi one seem the way to go you can also get your turbo spooling earlier by doing the heads.

I would be thinking may be a hi flow stage 2 from gcg and use your ecu cams and head work to lower spool times this will make very good power 250 rwkw is very achiveable.

the hks turbo would be good the 2835 is the best one but I have only seen them on cutom manifold. have you considered an exter waste gated turbo and these hold boost better and tend to wok better you can get a custom low mount turbo manifold made to suit.

cheers

meggala

I did quite a bit of rescearch in to this and in the end I threw my arms up and grabbed an rb25 turbo.. I can be very confusing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/#findComment-59485
Share on other sites

AFM, i thought the one std on RB20DET was 80mm unit, the same as 300ZX. Is there any advantage to changing AFMs.

As long as its 0 vacuum at 3000rpm and starting to boost id be happy. GCG offer BB rebuild for $2100. I like the idea of a cammed 2L turbo screaming outing some revs.

On a slightly different note, as far as aftermarket internals, like rods, i know they are stronger, but are they much lighter than balanced shot peened, linished originals. Coming from the old school 427 V8s i have to believe Jap engines require blueprinting even @ 240rwkws if they are going to be truly reliable over a duration longer than a few months.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/#findComment-59551
Share on other sites

The Zed AFM has a higher range ie you won't max out the output of it with greater airflow, but it has less resolution because it's still a 0-5v output.

Jap engines are very well built and balanced, as an example the VG30DETT in the Zed has forged rods and crank, the cranks are factory balanced using mallory metal, and the factory uses 3 grades of std bearings to achieve the best clearances, I would think the RB20 would be built just as well, and if you torch it........by another from a wrecker:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/#findComment-59567
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
...Dont want to go to aftermarket high mount cause that will mean major revisions to inlet piping.

...

lol...how things change... then again some things dont, im still a tight a55 and dont know what im doing.

You must be bored Doughboy... go practice your burnouts so you can run an 11 :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3594-hks-turbos/#findComment-979405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...