Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks great! Could you post up a picture from the inside of the bonnet?

To be honest u can't see a great deal from under the bonnet & a picture wouldn't be worth taking . As Terry said it sits nicely between the bonnet & heat shield guarding . All the panel beater did was slightly cut away bit of heat shield to have a clear area for the air to flow through. But here are some more pics i took yesterday , i'll take more once weather fines up & can get the car out of garage .

post-77182-0-11812800-1304141742_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-75698200-1304141862_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-34168800-1304141927_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-29207300-1304141948_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-37802200-1304142301_thumb.jpg

post-77182-0-63869900-1304142332_thumb.jpg

Just out of curiosity, how much did the panel beater charge for painting and fitting if you don't mind me asking?

Couldn't give u an exact figure , as i had other work done at the same time. Had right side guard & front bumper fixed with full front end re-spray / blending . All up for me it was $3000 , including getting the NACA air duct fitted. I reckon it wouldn't be more then $1000 as the whole bonnet would have to be resprayed & blending into both front guards. That would only be if u wanted the air duct to be colour coded with rest of car. Best to talk to your local paint shop for exact quote .

Edited by Tweaky

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html

$15.00 special for the boat, the lip at the front detaches the laminar air flow over the vent thus creating a low pressure which inturns draws the air out from under the bonnet removing the hot air from the exhaust and aiding in creating a lower pressure zone under the bonnet for a more efficient cooling system.

Or something like that, LOL.

P.S, I think it looks OK but then Im old and blind.

Just out of curiosity, how much did the panel beater charge for painting and fitting if you don't mind me asking?

Re: Black GT-R on page 1

Panelbeater charged $500 (no paperwk) for cutting > installing NACA Duct ($60), SAAS mesh, moulding them into the bonnet and painting it.

  • 3 months later...

Abit of a bump but Ive been looking at one of these. I feel it is something I can do my self. The unit you guys use sits underneath so its definateley more work involved. What I would like to do is get the one that sits in from the top. Kind of like these but this is way too expensive.

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19518&cat=&page=1

Are there any single plastic alternatives which sit in from the top? I would imagine its a line up, measure, cut, touch up the cut and treat with rust proofing agent, get the duct painted white matching the car colour code and then glue it into place. Thing is I don't know where I want to put it. I wanted to put it at the front where my intake box is then make a small ducting system in my pod box underneath, but the job you guys have done to let in cool air on the turbo is also awesome.

Where can I pick up one of these bulging ducts?

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...