Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all ,

Saw a guy had a bride replica seat at the Dyno day that just passed in his red M3 and it looked really good , so im considering getting it soon.

http://www.justjap.c...&cat=282&page=1

Has anyone tried fitting one of these in theyre 32 / what sort of modifications am I looking at doing / is there any welding to be done??

I phoned justjap and they said even if i get the skyline rail i will still need to modify it to fit the actual seat.. so ill just use the rail alredy on the car.

If anyone can help me put it in , i will buy you allot of beer :)

Thanks

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359789-bride-copy-seat-in-32-gtr/
Share on other sites

I've got a similar one in my R34.

All I had to do was to get a Recaro rail (thanks to JDMPWR), it bolted straight onto the seat and since the rails was made for R34, it bolted straight onto my car.

No problems at all :)

Those universal rails that comes with aftermarket seats will never fit your car without any mods.

But to be honest, these seats are awesome, hugs the shit outta you around corners, but if your car was a daily, I'd reconsider lol and think about Recaros instead....

It's SOOOOO bad to get in and out of, especially you don't wanna just flop onto the seat everytime you get in and out as you try to avoid the bolster tears lol

img0942e.jpg

img0943gw.jpg

Oh and to be precise, those are Recaro SR3 rails to suit R34.

As the SR3's mounting holes are in the exact same position as the Bride style.

They can be found 2nd hand for anywhere between $50-200 lol

Even a skinny person like me, I have to support myself by pushing up against the door jam to get in and out. And it sucks when I park in a very tight carpark with a car next to me :(

But when I'm turning corners in it, it is AWESOME, I don't even sway one bit lol

Even a skinny person like me, I have to support myself by pushing up against the door jam to get in and out. And it sucks when I park in a very tight carpark with a car next to me :(

But when I'm turning corners in it, it is AWESOME, I don't even sway one bit lol

Is your seat from holford Motors or jj charlie?

Damn they look so good man! Thanks allot for the info , ill look into getting those rails for my 32.

Would 34 rails have the same bolt patter to go on a 32 floor??

just buy a cheap generic low mount rail and drill the holes to suit. heaps cheaper than buying a genuine rail

Is your seat from holford Motors or jj charlie?

Bought it from a dude in Frankston, brand new lol. It owns the Drift Blades :P

Damn they look so good man! Thanks allot for the info , ill look into getting those rails for my 32.

Would 34 rails have the same bolt patter to go on a 32 floor??

It's heaps awesome man, for the price you pay and the comfort you get, unbeatable. If you are around my area, you are more than welcome to come see it in real life and have a sit in it lol.

And no, R34s have different rails to R32,R33s.

just buy a cheap generic low mount rail and drill the holes to suit. heaps cheaper than buying a genuine rail

It's not just as easy as drilling a few holes...

Those universial rails won't bolt onto the car properly without mods, let alone bolting onto the seat. And you wouldn't wanna be modding the rails, as things could go bad during an accident.

And drilling holes in universial rails to fit the seat might not work, as the rail's mounting brackets might be too far or too close apart, which won't line up with the seat.

The amount you spend on a cheap unversial rail ($50-100) and the time you spend on modding and the risk you take on modding, I'd rather pay extra $50-100 to get proper rails.

Having said that, having a replica seat can also be a risk during an accident lol

the only difference between a universal rail and say a r34 specific one is the shape of the mounting plates essentially.

i dont see how drilling your own holes is any different to using the existing ones. its still a thick bit of steel bolted to the floor no matter how you do it.

Well depending on the universial rails I guess, but I think some of the times, you will find that the mounting brackets are sitting so far from the mounting holes that you will need to modify the bracket, eg cutting and rewelding or welding an extra bit of metal wit hole to line up with the car.

lol there is no way in hell that the universal 'rail' (which is in-fact just a sliding mechanism, no base) will fit into a skyline without some welding.

John the jjr rail will work, you may need to drill your own holes in the jjr rail to mount to seat to, that is it. But they mount the seat pretty high.

And you can't use the rail that is already on the car, as you will need to re-weld/cut/hack it up to mount it to the bride style seat.

The ///M runs one of these (to fit e36), I run one in my car as well.

http://www.nzkw.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=104_93_96_130&products_id=250

Attach the slider that comes with the seat onto that base, nice a low. easy.

Buy the seat and then buy the genuine bride rail for that seat and it will fit in the r32 no worries. Ive had both the copy and genuine brides run on the same rail in my r32 gtr gtst and r33 gtst no worries. This was with the bride gias seat similar to what you have...No cutting or welding requried.

Man, my asian hips struggles a little to fit in it and I weigh 55kg lol

They are heaps tight

Also, instead of getting from JustJap. Hollford Motors (think that's what it's called) in Melb sells the same seat but with bride logo on it lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...