Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy yourself and r32 RB20 thermostat from Nissan. They are 76deg.

Cheaper upgrade than a nismo one.

I have one in my NEO as the running temp was around 90 deg.

Now it sits on 80deg

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties. new-engine.pdf

Edited by simpletool

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties.

Only over a certain temperature though. It doesn't double wear when it is perfectly within it's operating temperature. Running at 95 degrees compared to 85 degrees isn't doubling the wear on everything.

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

I find it difficult to believe that because they're running at this higher temperature - and designed to - that they're suddenly causing much much higher rates or wear and going through things like water pumps quicker.

Pulled my water pump out for 100,000km service recently (I have no way of knowing if it was previously replaced, sure) and it looked almost like brand new.

Bubba.....seriously. :/

I've been playing with RB's for a while now dude, and I am yet to see the issues you are stating. I'm not saying they DON'T happen, I'm just saying it's probably not as dire as you are making out.

As I agreed with above, if you're hitting 95deg after a quick blat to 100kmh then yes, you have a problem but it's not going to cause everything to fall apart from pitting and corrosion.

Basically, regular fluid maintenance (which coolant is a part of, and something everybody should be doing) will help everything live a (hopefully) long and uneventful life.

Ignore your fluid changes for several years, and yes, you will likely see a massive deteoriation in cooling system components. The lack of maintenance, even at normal operating temps, is going to do a lot more damage than running it hotter but changing fluids more often.

I only stated that the reason temps are higher now days is puerly to lower emissons.

Spot on.

And conversely, you get rather poor fuel atomisation at lower temps so unless your inlet tracts and combustion chambers have been designed to run at ~60deg, nobody should be using one of those low temp thermostats.

I agree, no need for low temps thermostats.

Look, I never meant that there is some dire problem. Just thought that since we are all driving 10+ year old cars then we should be aware of increasing cooling system corrosion (heater cores for instance). It is also a problem if you don't change coolant.

People can disagree with the science if they want, I was just giving some extra info.

Edited by simpletool

+1 I'd rather go with a genuine thermostat.

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

wut?

I already said no need for a low temp thermostat, and I didn't say chinese stuff is shit but as far as chinese made goods go you DO pay for quality. That is the only difference in chinese made goods, from the same factory you can have good or crap stuff, depending on how much you're willing to pay for the quality control. I deal with chinese manufacturers and fabricators a fair bit (albeit for much larger scale stuff) :)

Edited by bubba

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

who tuned the car?

what ecu? do you have a dyno sheet with afr?

might need to be richened up a bit to help keep combustion temps down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...