Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, i reciently bought back my legnum a couple of days ago, and monday night during the rain my Legnum and along with another 20 or so cars got broken into in newport in afew streets, stupidly i had left my Canon 5Dmk2 with Battery grip and a sigma 20mm 1.8 attached.

5593868128_9c5950c4dc_z.jpg

I have reported, fingerprinted and palmed out the 5D serial code to several pawn shops, madly watching Gumtree and Ebay, and hoping that out of the 20 cars there would be some evidence or a lead..

No insurance for the camera, and only 3rd party for the legnum, so ill have to find a nice and common off the shelf piece of glass >_>

Please if you hear of or see this 5d, it is great missed and is well needed..

Serial number is 212431402510

Slight scratch on the bottom left of the battery grip, and its strap is on.

Also had a Kingston 32gig CF card inside.

Call/message me on 0424505711 or hit me up here on JDMST or Facebook - Scott Mitchell.

Thank you!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359976-my-legnum-broken-into-5d-stolen/
Share on other sites

Very sorry to hear! Newport surprises me as I work in the area, better keep a closer eye on my 34.

I work in a computer store, so in the off chance someone brings in a camera I'll check it out for you.

Best of luck with it all!

Same sort of thing happened to me in Mona Vale, someone went around to all the cars in the street including my 34 and broke into them.

They didnt end up getting into mine i think they say the alarm warning light on the dash so i was lucky, untill a couple months later when the house got robbed and they stole all my camera gear which included a Pentax DSLR and a bag full of lenses ect GRRR

I bet you it was fcuking Avcats or lame ass lad's. There has been heaps of break ins lately on the northern beaches. I'll keep my eye out on the photography forums and word of mouth locally. If i find them, be sure to know that they will be tied to a chair in my shed with electricity flowing through them until you arrive :)

Didn't realize there was so many northern beaches people on here!

Man this is so f**kt.. Not only did your car get f**ked up but a beautiful camera got taken in the process. The area is full of cocks and someone is bound to slip up with some info on the cameras whereabouts.

Do what your doing, keep your eyes peeled online and try and keep your ears out for any loud mouth dream boats. Any info and i'll be sure to pass it on. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...