Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Dies Randomly

darylmarklim

By darylmarklim,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
Posted

Good day guys..

I recently sent my car in to install some audio systems, I also rewired the entire audio system as the previous owner's setup was very messy

The audio system was installed and working perfectly the day before, however yesterday, my car's engine began to cut off randomly (as i was in gear, the engine started back up immediately thus i just felt a jerk) Today, i nearly crashed as i was in a turn and the engine died off with clutch in, losing my power steering.

The symptom was pretty much similar to the one experienced by this dude: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/282545-engine-cutting-out-randomly/page__p__4757195__hl__engine+dies+off__fromsearch__1#entry4757195

Besides the above i have been searching the forum but i can't find 1 similar or with explanation

Did an OBD check turned out the following:

017 camshaft position sensor memory condition, ecm not received related pulse signal from sensor when engine working at certain rpm. possible cause sensor fault or circuit voltage / starter motor or starting system supply abnormal

038 turbo sensor memory condition - ecm received voltage signal from sensor paranormal - minority outlet voltage difference from sensor under voltage high possible cause: turbo charger, sensor, circuit - intake air system - exhaust system.

OBD Reset with 038 still showing and symptoms persisting

Did a DIY ECU Fault code reading: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

11: Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor

26: Boost Pressure Sensor

Checked the service manual,

For the crankshaft position sensor: instantaneous break: symptoms vary with the break time and the vehicle's driving conditions. Light shock or surging will occur while the vehicle is being driven and the engine will stall at idle speed. (which is somewhat similar)

For the turbo pressure sensor, it will be judged at zero, no remarkable malfunction will be detected.

What i have tried:

I have not been boosting the car at all. Also, the boost pressure (038)sensor only came up after i reseted the OBD, however both 11 and 26 came up when i did the diy. As such, this should be of no reason why the car dies off.

A postulation from my tuner is that the previous owner had connected the secondary power source for the ECU (which should be direct to the battery) through the cable that ran for the audio. As such, after i rewired the audio cables, the ECU may not have its secondary power source anymore. (checking it out on sat)

I have tried running the car with and without the audio turned on to no avail.

I have recorded the voltage when the engine dies off and there seems to be no loss of voltage (with or without music)

I am at a loss as to how to fix this, will be sending in to workshop this weekend to see if they can diagnose the problem.

My question is, does anyone have such an experience and any idea how i can fix it?

Thanks for taking the time to read my lengthy post, as a token of gratitude, please accept this picture for your amusement

ass-hump-day-20.jpg

borrowed from thechive.com if your dont already know this awesome site.

Cheers!

Daryl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360179-engine-dies-randomly/
Share on other sites
darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

tried resetting ecu, does not help as well, managed to find a thread about it, if anyone can share some advice will be greatly appreciated. cheers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/233229-car-randomly-dies/

Edited by darylmarklim
Nanogrip Collaborator

Nanogrip

Posted
Posted

Does the engine die when you are in slow traffic or when you are at low revs or when changing gears? If so, then might be worth checking the idle air control solenoid valve if it needs cleaning. Same with the air flow meter. There is an excellent tutorial somewhere in the forums.

My randomly dying engine became a lot worse after installing a Blitz Sonic Power Intake, after checking in the forums here, I tried the idle air control cleaning, problem never returned.

darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Does the engine die when you are in slow traffic or when you are at low revs or when changing gears? If so, then might be worth checking the idle air control solenoid valve if it needs cleaning. Same with the air flow meter. There is an excellent tutorial somewhere in the forums.

My randomly dying engine became a lot worse after installing a Blitz Sonic Power Intake, after checking in the forums here, I tried the idle air control cleaning, problem never returned.

Thanks nanogrip. My air flow meter is dirty but as I just got my Z32 AFM, i didnt want to remove it till i swapped them both. However it has not been cleaned since i bought the car a year ago, would such symptoms as engine dying occur out of the blue? There was no gradual engine dying once a week perhaps, it was fine 1 day then started dying every few minutes now.

The engine dies off at random RPM, as low as 1500+, also happens when changing gears, even when cruising i can feel a slight jerk followed by engine light on. Now when i start my car, the engine light will remain on immediately until i start driving for a few minutes.

As for the idler air control solenoid, is it the 'variable air intake control solenoid valve'? (trying to find it on service manual) will find the tutorial and give it a try.

Also, my car is a R34 RB25DET, last modification was to upgrade fuel pump to a 255l walbro pump which was operating normally for at least 2 weeks prior to this incident.

Edited by darylmarklim
darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have sent car to workshop, turns out it is the turbo sensor wiring that is loose thus causing the engine light to come on.

But now my car is even more undrivable, below 3000 rpm, the throttle response is weird. Eg. I can be full throttle but RPM crawls its way up to around 3000 then resumes normal operation.

Also, moving off is hard because the car wants to die out at low RPM.

Workshop said it had to do with my air intake pipe, which is made of some plastic springy tube, which allows air in through the circumference of the pipe and not only through the air filter and afm.

This is because when throttle is pressed, you can see the circumference of the pipe getting smaller (air sucked in through the sides) and when you shake the pipe, the RPM fluctuates at idle.

Any thoughts on whether this diagnosis is accurate? I have to wait till next week when im free to change to a metal pipe

EurasiaN! Explorer

EurasiaN!

Posted
Posted

had this same problem coming around a corner last week mate, loss of power steering, all dash lights came on, no brakes (hardly) almost sent me into the gutter until the engine decided to kick back in last second and luckily enough I managed to yank her back.

Scared the s**t out of me! But problem hasnt come back since .. *fingers crossed*

Let us know how you go mate, and what you do to resolve the issue!

darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi everyone, the new Z32 AFM is working fine, as well as the stock one.

Workshop suspects its the turbo sensor wiring that was loose and intermittent, coupled with the springy plastic air intake pipe (which was previously glued onto the turbo and had come loose over time) that caused the random engine dying.

With regard to the rough driving, was just a tuning issue. So far car is sorted out, engine light still comes on (14 - Speed sensor) but that's another issue.

It still dies when boosting and then clutching in without shifting gears. Tuner said it has to do with bov or stock waste gate not opening up in time thus the backpressure.

However quite seldom at low RPM, grandma style driving, the RPM also wants to drop and die out when i clutch in and come to a stop. Thanks to Nanogrip for the solution, will try it out.

Thank you to everyone for your suggestions and input!

  • 3 weeks later...
darylmarklim Contributor

darylmarklim

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Does anyone have the part number for the turbo pressure sensor? I cant find it online or on forum, could anyone help? Thank you

My local nissan dealer had a replacement but it looked totally different from the original one.

turbopressuresensor.jpg

Edited by darylmarklim

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...