Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buyers/Sellers BEAWARE of StateRoads

Just a heads up for potential buyers/sellers when requesting a vehicle inspection before purchase by StateRoads. The one in question is the Victoria branch. I had a buyer ask them to inspected my vehicle.

Their inspection is ONLY via hearing and visual checks, not dismantling components as stated in

their policy.

The inspector named Reece started disconnecting random connectors in the engine bay and cranking the engine after

each component was disconnected. After that the car wouldn't start even when everything was connected.

The inspector said that starting the car is not part of his job nor does he know what the problem is.

He jumped into his car and stormed off. Buyer was not interested anymore and I was left with a dead car.

I called the office and spoke to a Jo who asked me to email what happened, so I did. The next morning

she calls back and very rudely starting blasting at me that the vehicle is not their liability and

there not responsible for it, take us to court if you want and hanged up. That is all she said. I was shocked.

Called the office straight after and asked for manager but he was "away". Ended up speaking with someone who

was talking crap without even knowing what happened. He said he'll contact the inspector to call you.

Inspector calls and says that while he was disconnecting connectors 'someone' else may have cranked the car

which stuffed up the car. His story completely changed and started calling me a liar. Also said that he's not

a mechanic and cannot help.

I've lost my buyers and ended up with a dead car.

These guys are the worst people I have ever come across in my life. Both on a work level and simple manners.

I've never had any problems with RACV. The StateRoads employees that handled this situation are simply scums of sewers.

Posted this so nobody else should suffer like I did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360304-buyerssellers-beaware-of-stateroads/
Share on other sites

Dude that's absolutely ridiculas. Take it to court

The only problem I can see is how you go about proving the car was fine before hand.

I know it's abit late now. But if I were you the second I saw him disconnect a single thing I would have asked him to sign something stating he liable for any damage if he didnt tough luck and atleast you can sell your car to another buyer

Good luck fighting it I really hope you come out on top

The inspector named Reece started disconnecting random connectors in the engine bay and cranking the engine after

each component was disconnected. After that the car wouldn't start even when everything was connected.

Comp Test?

Write everything that's happened into detailed notes with date and time. Take photos of the engine bay. Call Consumer Affairs Victoria on Monday - they will tell you how to proceed. If you need a car, hire one and keep the receipts.

Comp Test?

That sounds like what he must have been doing no other reason to crank the engine with things disconnected

To the OP are you 100% sure everything is connected back up as it should be?

I hate to say this but consumer affairs will probably just send you through some form of ombudsman service

I did this last year when I had a car accident and justcar insurance decided my turbo wasn't damaged in the accident

I paid their authorized repairer to fix it thinking that this would go in mg favor when I took it to fair trading and all up it cost me over 2000 bucks to fix and fair trading only gave me back $400 and it took a year to resolve massive waste of time

if what you say is true and your car DID start before the inspection and the buyer that was present witnessed this, then get the buyer to act as your witness and keep harassing them.

speak to fair trading and get them to pay.

Thanks guys. The car was working 100% before as buyer test drove a couple of days before and the inspector warmed the car before he started tinkering. The buyer witnessed everything and did say that they'll help me out if I decide to take it further as in the end they were charged for the half-ass report.

The inspector does admit disconnecting but says he's unable to help as he's not a mechanic. What really bothered me was that he left the car after he couldn't get it running again (said its not his fault) and the lady at their office was ridiculously rude and un-supportive, not to mention losing my buyers and a dead car.

I know in the end it'll cost me time and money and won't get me anywhere. Consumer services are a joke. I'll keep nudging them though, but they seem to have made up their mind. Might get someone to have a look at the car soon.

Without the other side you never know the full picture anyway.

Other side goes something like this:

'I opened the bonnet and unplugged a connector I had no idea about. Then I cranked the car, but engine didn't fire. So I decided to disconnect another connector and crank the car but no luck either. I plug connectors back in and car doesn't start. So I jump into my car and go home since its not my problem.'

Edited by theforce

Sorry to hear it, and if that were me I would be posting a whinge thread and chasing them up about it too (court, if necessary).

However my car was inspected by state roads before I bought it and I only have good things to say about the report. Very thorough.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...