Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1JZ in a chaser is a serious combination of luxo looks and awesome power (many over 500ps). If flicking through the pages of japanese magazines such as option, every month, is any indication - there are a lot more serious 1JZs than there are RB25s (these days). That's probably got a lot to do with the fact that a chaser is a class above a non-gtr skyline (whether you like to admit it or not). A 1JZ in a soarer is another matter altogether - but the quality of the engine remains the same.

I personally would choose the 1JZ over the RB25 but I can't say which is "better" as I have neither the mecahnical knowledge nor the experience to be able to compare the 2 fairly.

I think this comes down to what people feel is more important to them and what they like. Weather you choose a motor because of it's tuneability, how much power it'll handle on stock internals, parts availability, manufacturer.... whatever it may be.

This thread is a matter of opinions... not fact, and no one has an incorrect opinion (misguided or technically incorrect perhaps but not an incorrect opinion)

I vote the Rb25 since it has a background from nissan , but in standard form the Toyo is stronger in terms of standard with no modifcations to the motor.

You've hit the nail on the head with that last part. The main thing people seem to focus on about the 1J (and 2J) is the power it can handle. But what about the rest of it? Does the head flow the same, does it rev similarly, does it sound as good (:rofl:), does it respond the same way to mods, is it as cheap to mod, etc? If all of these are similar in both engines as I think they are, you're just back to the strength of the bottom end, which is only one part of the engine. Doesn't really put it in "a class ahead". I think it would be better to say that the RB25 or 1JZ are a class ahead of Holden's Buick 6 because there are a lot of fundamental things better on the former 2.

Sydneykid can also be quoted on these forums for saying that the Supra box is agricultural compared with the R33 GTS-t's. But man, why would you bother thinking about that when you're hung up on the bottom end :D

there was this test on zoom about placing a 50 cent coin on the cam cover of a reving 1jz to prove how smooth it was....

has anyone did it on a skyline?

That was the V8....got one and it's true :)

The 1jz definitely seems to enjoy a reputation of being equipped with a 'stronger' bottom end when compared to the RB25. Perhaps this is partly attributable to the lower compression ratio reducing the potential for detonation in comparison to the RB's higher 9:1, all other things being equal.

From what I can gather, the generally accept power ceiling on a stock RB25 is ~250kw atw, roughly 332flywheel kws without experiencing rapidly increasing probabilty of engine failure with extended use. I still think thats pretty amazing seeing factory is a relativley paltry ~187kw....

the coin test was with a 1J as well (a little party trick of mine:) the falcadore guyz freak) the 1J head can flow around 450 to 500 hp and the 2J up to around 600 without porting and mods and in the "power mode" my car shifts at 7700 so they are revvi...

the 1J and 2J are almost identical in manyspec the only major diff is better porting and 10mm longer conrods

as said above an RB25 can handle 250KW ATW which most ppl dont push too much beyond...which puts the strength of the 1J kinda out the door but its nice to know that its harder to break (get some bad tuning and you can breke it at 200kw)

as far as mods go well i find second hand goodies are harder to get that bolt straight into place but can be sourced

a massive advantage of the 1J over the RB's check out the price of one (i can get complete 1J with turbos comp ect for 1500 now thats cool for what you get hey???)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...