Jump to content
SAU Community

Recently Wrecked 1998 R34 Qld Brisbane

Tomtom369
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tomtom369 Apprentice

Tomtom369

Posted
Posted

Hi all, i have a 1998 R34 GT up for sale.

It just got into an accident, and i have no intention of repairing it. i could sell all the parts individually as spares but it takes me too much effort to remove them. i am looking to sell the car as a whole for AUD$4000. Price is Negotiable. Everything is currently stock to the bone. the engine is unharmed by the accident, the only damage it received from the crash are:

Headlights

Bonnet

Front Bumper

Radiator

Fan

Battery

(basically anything infront of the engine.)

Rear Bumper

Rear Right Body (where the Petrol Cap is at)

Rear Tyres.

Everything in the inside of the cabin is fine, except for the steering wheel and the passenger side airbag popped.

doors,side mirrors, window are all fine.

On it i have AVA 17'' Alloy wheels that are in good condition with minor scratches, Kenwood Speakers 2rear 2 front.

Location is at St Lucia.

Number to call is 0451472526 (Tommy)

If you are looking to build a new car from mine or if u need spares to repair your's, look no further. take a look. it might do someone some good instead of me scrapping it.

More pictures will be upload upon request. Thanks for reading.

post-84008-0-77964700-1302473143_thumb.jpg

post-84008-0-60169900-1302473151_thumb.jpg

post-84008-0-12293200-1302473160_thumb.jpg

post-84008-0-05061000-1302473170_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 12 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...