Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 gst

and a few months ago stopped starting

put a new battery still doesnt change

jump start it using the terminal in the front

and bang it starts

today did all the checks

ground seems fine as multimetre reads around 12v when getting reading of the terminals

battery is at 12v

the big wire from battery at boot fuse box reads 12v

and the 2 terminals at the front also read 12v (maybe 11v should i be worried?)

when i start the car the voltage drops to 10v (but nothing lower - is that a sign somethings wrong?)

any ideas whats wrong

or any previous experiences id love to know

also if you need more info feel free to ask

really stumpd at the moment

as i thought the whole time something was wrong with the wiring from boot fuse box to front fuse box

but that doesnt seem to be the problem if its reading practically the same reading

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360637-car-not-starting/
Share on other sites

maybe more information about the 'not starting' bit.. do you get lights up on the dash, does the starter motor turn the engine at all?

the terminals must be contacting well for enough current to pass to kick the starter over. accessories that draw little amps might still work but if the connection isn't very good then you won't get the solenoid clicking or the starter spinning.

my advice would be to remove the terminals and make sure you dont have any oxidation or corrosion interfering with the connection.

Also a flat battery will sometimes still read 12v, the best way to check the battery is with a hydrometer.

Clean the shit out of your battery clamps with contact cleaner and a wire brush.

If she kicks over with jumpers on - it will be a battery related problem.

I had this same problem a couple of weeks back and it was the battery clamps (not terminals on the battery but clamps that come on wires connected to the car) that were dirty.

The only reason yours fires up with jump leads is by luck - you have clamped the jumpers on to points of the battery terminals/clamps that aren't so grubby.

To be honest mine didn't look that dirty but after they were cleaned the car worked perfectly so yeah - i'd be starting here.

ok have cleaned the terminals

and think clamps (do you mean the clamps as what u put over your battery right?)

ive had a similar problem before so did do that

forget to mention that

and i did take a reading at the clamp as well - still said 12v

battery was replaced with brand new one

still no difference

when trying to start it clicks but doesnt crank

and also everything else turns on fine

hey man can you start it up with a jump then unhook the other batt and tell us what voltage the batt running the car is reading at?

what sort of voltage drop are you getting from the boot to bonnet, you mentioned 12 to 11 in your original post? that sounds like it could be a loose/bad connection somewhere

as I mentioned a battery reading 12v with no load on it doesn't mean anything. if it started with jumper leads off another battery, then everything is pointing to your current battery being dead. that *click* *click* is the solenoid on the starter motor having barely enough amps to engage itself, let alone enough amps to spin the starter motor.

Check the earth to the starter and Possibly clean the ends so it has good contact with the starter and chassis

If it's around 14v when the car is running your altenator sounds alright. If the car drops below 8v I think it is then your battery is prob stuffed. Did you get a battery with the correct cca for your car? Might not have enough amps to turn the starter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...