Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm considering selling my 240Z circuit car and the potential buyer wants to give his R32 GTR as a part trade.

Here is the link to where he has it for sale at the moment.

http://www.boostcrui...howtopic=662563

I'm just wondering what you guys think I could sell it for here in Tassie? Keeping in mind I would want to move it on fairly quickly.

How is the market for GTR's down here at the moment? Are they selling quickly or sitting around?

Anyway, any input would be appreciated

Cheers,

Shane

Edited by Scando
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360767-value-of-r32-gtrs-in-tassie/
Share on other sites

I doubt the car would sell quickly unless it went for 10k or so. Oherwise they would have been able to sell it now and give you the money.

I love GTR's and own an r32 but in reality they are just getting very cheap even for great cared for cars. But the one you are looking at is an early 89 and to be honoest you could better than the car your looking at (unless it is under 12K). You spend another 5-8K and you could start looking at some real impressive gtr's.

I'm not trying to bag the car your looking at bt thats my opinion.

Anyway a 240z is still highly desireable. Is yours race car only or does it have rego and can be street driven? From your avitar looks quite nice. Put some pics up. What sort of money you chasing out of curiosity?

Thats not a $21k GT-R.

I'd run a mile looking at the cack handed paint touchups in the engine bay. Not to mention every bit of trim which would show the BS 90k claim up has been replaced...

Looks like a tarty $10k car. Is it 1989?

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't realise the market for GTR's had dropped out so badly! I have no intention of keeping his car, if I get it, it will be up for sale straight away.

Sounds like it might be best if I just try to get him to sell his car and pay cash for mine then.

Anyway a 240z is still highly desireable. Is yours race car only or does it have rego and can be street driven? From your avitar looks quite nice. Put some pics up. What sort of money you chasing out of curiosity?

It is on SI rego and I had it engineered with the L28 turbo engine and roll cage. I've upgraded the brakes and put bigger wheels on since it was engineered though.

I'm chasing a bit over $30K for it. If he won't pay that then I'm happy to let it sit in the shed and keep collecting dust unitl I can afford to use it again.

It's done 59.2 around Baskerville, 1:00.1 around Symmons and 1:48.9 around Phillip Island. 2nd in Targa B for the 2007 state series, 1st for Targa B in 2008 & 2nd for Targa A in 2009.

it is probably worth 21k to someone...

but if i was to spend 21k on a R32 GTR it would want to have all the supporting mods to push 350-400kw

have a look on carsales to see what mods a 20k GTR goes for...

apart from the body work, which personally i think its worse than a stock gun metal GTR, it hasn't got much done..

would need a lot of rockets under those covers to be worth his asking price IMO....

your car on the otherhand....worth every cent

Edited by jangles

Thanks guys, I thought his car might be worth around $16K so I'm very glad I got your input. I was way off the mark!

I told him what cash I'd require on top of his car based on what you guys have said and I think I offended him so the 240Z can keep collecting dust for now ;)

the value of mint late model 32 GTR can still fetch 25k easily

i wouldnt go near a clapped out 89 model for 20k especially if it had been sprayed in some hektik colour and even if it had supporting mods for 300kw.

the value of mint late model 32 GTR can still fetch 25k easily

i wouldnt go near a clapped out 89 model for 20k especially if it had been sprayed in some hektik colour and even if it had supporting mods for 300kw.

I paid little over $20k for an 89 a year ago... it was either an 89 or 94 - the first or the last of the R32 GTR, didn't want the inbetweeners and preferred the first.

if I didn't have my car and I'm looking for an R32 GTR now I'd still be willing to pay between $20k-$25k for a clean standard or well modified one(no bling paintjob wheels etc)... wouldn't look at spending any less!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...