Jump to content
SAU Community

Micrometers

r31slpr

By r31slpr,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looking at buying a couple micrometers and probably a telescopic gauge set, can anyone recommend some good brands?

cheers

Mitutoyo is the only brand I will use for Mics, verniers and dial indicators.

A 0-25mm, 25-50mm and a 75 -100mm with a 50mm extension piece will cover just about everything the average person would need to machine.

However, you can buy some good, no name brand telescopic gauges. I have a set of Kinchrome telescopic gauges.

The important thing with telescopic gauges is that they lock easily and firmly, so there is no error introduced, and you can measure off them with your mic. Check out afew different types at your local tool supplier, cheap ones and expensive ones. As always with precision tools; Feels crap = Is crap

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5760478
Share on other sites
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Yes. Mitutoyo are very good. I have a Mitutoyo vernier that's 20 years old and still like new.

I asked for some micrometers for Xmas a few years ago (yes, I'm a sad nut) from the Hare and Forbes catalogue (where most of my presents come from), as they sell some good quality gear. Unfortunately they talked my wife into the "equally good, but much cheaper" Measurmax. Do not touch this stuff - it is absolute shit.

Fair enough it seems to work OK, but it is in a completely different league to the Mitutoyo. Remember, you're buying precision measuring gear that's meant to be accurate to a thou or better. Don't skimp out. If you can't afford a full set, then buy one item at a time and build up over a few years. You won't be sorry. If treated well, it will be with you for 50 years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5760788
Share on other sites
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

^^^^^+1 for this.

Buying cheap is false economy, you'll only end up getting the shits and spending more to get what you should have in the first place.

I used to work with some old school Toolmakers, who've had the same Mics and Verniers (Mitutoyo) since they entered their Trade. Calibrate a couple of times a year (for constant, professional use), and treat them like a newborn baby; they'll be accurate forever. Now that's value for money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5760849
Share on other sites
.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

I've used itutoyo throughout all my career.. my dad is a toolmaker by trade and he doesnt sell anything below Mitutoyo

LOL Measurmax.. equally good.. LOL.. they make more profit on them.. that is all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5760867
Share on other sites
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

A quick bit of Googling revealed this; http://www.procureit...u/mitutoyo.html

And; http://www.justtools.com.au/category221_1.htm

Haven't dealt with either, but might be worth a look.

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5762201
Share on other sites
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted (edited)

Good prices at Hare and Forbes (note these prices don't include GST, so you'll need to add it)

Hare and Forbes

If you're working with imperial measurements a lot then go that way, otherwise stick to metric. At any rate, make sure you're good at doing the conversions.

Make sure that all your gear is the same though. Nothing harder than trying to compare metric and imperial measurements from 2 different sets of measuring equipment (eg measuring end float with an imperial dial gauge, then making up a shim pack with a metric micrometer - even for a maths whiz the chances of making a mistake are high).

Edited by warps
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360843-micrometers/#findComment-5762669
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...