Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need to remove my EBC to get through the vehicle inspection station.

I'm doing it on an R33 GTS-T, and i just need to know what vacuum lines to disconnect and what do i replace them with!

Any help is appreciated

Thanks

Need to remove the line going to your ebc and fit the standard boost solenoid in there. You will see your ebc tapped in between some vacuum and your wastegate. Get rid of that and put your boost solenoid in place.

Step 1. Pop bonnet

Step 2. Find boost controller solenoid

Step 3. Locate line going from actuator into boost controller solenoid and line going from boost controller solenoid into intercooler piping.

Step 4. Disconnect lines and connect line directly from actuator into intercooler piping (essentially by passing the solenoid).

Step 5. Remove boost controller solenoid - will have wiring going from it into the cabin of the car.

Step 6. Remove all evidence of boost controller inside cabin.

Step 1. Pop bonnet

Step 2. Find boost controller solenoid

Step 3. Locate line going from actuator into boost controller solenoid and line going from boost controller solenoid into intercooler piping.

Step 4. Disconnect lines and connect line directly from actuator into intercooler piping (essentially by passing the solenoid).

Step 5. Remove boost controller solenoid - will have wiring going from it into the cabin of the car.

Step 6. Remove all evidence of boost controller inside cabin.

Won't this be relying on the wastegate spring to control boost? If so he should take it easy while driving it, those old springs and wastegates get tired.

That is true but judging by my current car, I wouldn't rely too heavily on it. My spring seems a little sticky and my wastegate is leaking. Switching my boost controller off(0%) I had boost hit about 12psi.

Best advice is remove what you need to, have it tested then put it back on. Drive the car easily though.

Well that doesn't really make sense. A boost controller stops air from going to the actuator by bleeding it to atmosphere. This in turn allows the wastegate to be shut for longer and therefore make more boost.

With the boost controller set to doing nothing (off/0%) it will not bleed any air, and therefore it basically acts as though it wasn't even there, ie. running actuator spring pressure.

Hence why you can't run less boost pressure than what the actuator spring can take, there is no way for it to do it.

That is true but judging by my current car, I wouldn't rely too heavily on it. My spring seems a little sticky and my wastegate is leaking. Switching my boost controller off(0%) I had boost hit about 12psi.

Best advice is remove what you need to, have it tested then put it back on. Drive the car easily though.

What boost controller is that?

The only thing I can think of is that with the boost controller still plugged in but set to zero is providing a slight restriction between actuator and boost source. Have you tried bypassing the boost solenoid altogether and taken it for a drive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
×
×
  • Create New...