Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hope you've got grip sorted out, youll need it.

I looked at getting oversized valves made up last year. Best bet is to send an RB26 one to whoever youre going to use, then tell them to work from that as a base. Once youve got them done, give them to your machinist with the rest of the motor and then he can cut valve reliefs while doing dummy assembly.

Why use Ti though?

Hope you've got grip sorted out, youll need it.

I looked at getting oversized valves made up last year. Best bet is to send an RB26 one to whoever youre going to use, then tell them to work from that as a base. Once youve got them done, give them to your machinist with the rest of the motor and then he can cut valve reliefs while doing dummy assembly.

Why use Ti though?

im going for a big power build... something close to the HKS drag 33, i want it to hold together

Ferrea are awesome and is what I got. Ti valve unless you want to rev to 10k and it to last a short period of time is the biggest waste of money. $300 each mate I have the quote if you want to see it, by the way there are 24 of them. Custom made from US same people that do the top NASCAR shit. Naprec is also no good.

Titanium is only weight saving you can rev it higher (less mech losses as valve train light).

Those cams are very short duration too for twin 3540s and lots of revs and power.

Titanium is only weight saving you can rev it higher (less mech losses as valve train light).

.

Not as big of an advantage in an RB being that the valve train is very light...well compared to a pushrod motor anyway

To the guy above...I heared mixed reports about the BC valves, some of them are just rebranded quality brands, some are of lesser quality

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
    • If there's oil in with the clutch, I hope it finds its way out even if that hole has a cover/grommet 😛 I don't want oil near my cars clutch! 😛 Interested to hear the answer about covering it, I'm assuming a bung for a gearbox from another car that has a grommet to suit.
×
×
  • Create New...