Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all just a quick one,long and short of it i live in vic and it looks like i might be moving to canberra soonish can anyone tell me what sort of check's they do on your car when changing over rego or is it walk in walk out type thing? it has a bit of work done to it and want to know if i'll have to strip it to stock or if i'll be ok leaving as is,any info would be great cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361498-wondering-about-rego-in-act/
Share on other sites

I bought my GTT from Vic... we have "authorised inspection stations" here which are just workshops/servos, but if your car is too modified you will have to go to the main inspection place at Dickson (aka "the pits"). It's a proper inspection place with rollers, noise level equipment etc.

The rules seem to be a bit better here than some states (we can have un-enclosed pods etc) but it's a bit hit and miss. If your car is tidy you may get away with more than if you are trying to pass something that looks like a drift pig.

What sort of mods are we talking about?

I bought my GTT from Vic... we have "authorised inspection stations" here which are just workshops/servos, but if your car is too modified you will have to go to the main inspection place at Dickson (aka "the pits"). It's a proper inspection place with rollers, noise level equipment etc.

The rules seem to be a bit better here than some states (we can have un-enclosed pods etc) but it's a bit hit and miss. If your car is tidy you may get away with more than if you are trying to pass something that looks like a drift pig.

What sort of mods are we talking about?

3 1/2 inch exhuast,pod(not in box),bov,intercooler,plazaman pleanum+90mm throttle body,microtech ecu,900 cc injectors,fuel pump+regulator,garrett turbo,boost controller a few other bits and pieces that should be ok rims,suspention ect no body kits or big wings,the thing is i can get it striped to stock here for $200 (have all the stock gear still)so not sure weather to get it done here or wing it and hope for the best cheer,another thing are there epa notices there too anyone who has been to vic should know what i'm talking about

Edited by russ123

+1 @SHELL

if its only guna cost ya $200 then id do it now and get it changed back after the rego side of things is sorted.

-exhaust needs to be <90dB @3,200-3,600rpm (depending on date of build)

- no bashed out cats or de-cat pipes (big fines)

-pod needs to be secured and have some kind of heat shielding

-bov needs to be 100% plumb back and not adjustable

-intercooler needs to be securely mounted and centre section of bumper bar cant be completely cut away

-cant have a boost controller or bigger turbo

-coilovers are legal if they are set to correct ground clearance and eyebrow heights (usually marked so they can see if they have been messed with in case of a defect etc)

-tyres need to be load rated

-wheel spacers are illegal (any kind unless its an OEM fitted track kit)

-cant have external fuel pumps and big surge tanks in your boot unless its engineered

-no drift style handbrake buttons (no spring etc)

-unsure about anti-hicas bars

-no locked diffs

-if you have braided brake lines they must be DOT and ADR approved

hope that covers enough for ya

+1 @SHELL

if its only guna cost ya $200 then id do it now and get it changed back after the rego side of things is sorted.

-exhaust needs to be <90dB @3,200-3,600rpm (depending on date of build)

- no bashed out cats or de-cat pipes (big fines)

-pod needs to be secured and have some kind of heat shielding

-bov needs to be 100% plumb back and not adjustable

-intercooler needs to be securely mounted and centre section of bumper bar cant be completely cut away

-cant have a boost controller or bigger turbo

-coilovers are legal if they are set to correct ground clearance and eyebrow heights (usually marked so they can see if they have been messed with in case of a defect etc)

-tyres need to be load rated

-wheel spacers are illegal (any kind unless its an OEM fitted track kit)

-cant have external fuel pumps and big surge tanks in your boot unless its engineered

-no drift style handbrake buttons (no spring etc)

-unsure about anti-hicas bars

-no locked diffs

-if you have braided brake lines they must be DOT and ADR approved

hope that covers enough for ya

thanks heaps guys reckon i will get it done before i head up only one thing that's sort of got me worryed the bov bit mine's a gfb 3 in 1 one it's all plumbed back but it has a plug in it that i can screw out and screw in a trumpet and can be adjusted :unsure: it's not in the same spot a stock one now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...