Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

JDM R35 2 1/2 years old

Tried to start it about 3 weeks ago, the battery was a bit low as I hadn't used the car for 2 months.

First it wouldn't start. all dash light on,

starter button nothing, but the headlights came on, and the headlight switch could not turn them off.

Then it finally started,but It wold stop.

Tried disconecting the battery, car still running, headlight still on, no way to stop it,apart from clamping a fuel line.

Tok it for a drive, after about 6 kms the headlights went off.

drove for 12 kms, stopped, and the starter switch stopped the car and it started again normally.

Everything operating as new again.

Tried to start it again yesterday, dash lights on, headlights on again, starter switch nothing.

Disconected the battery, dash light and headlight off.

So I charged the battery over night and tried again this morning, same thing again , dash and headlight on but it won't start.

Had to disconected the battery to turn the lights off.

Help Help any ideas all please???????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362025-help-r35-gone-crazy-again/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

I agree but I have a multi meter on it and when I press the start button the voltage doesen't change, just silence.

OK the puzzle contunies

reconnect battery but first check current draw as it sparks a little as I connect and disconnect.

doors open interior light (door0 on close door? no windows up

reconect battry lower windows a bit close doors, check current draw .4 amps.

reconnect battery check for fault codes with cob

Troubleshoot reports "no codes"

ignition is on so I press the start button

this it goes off

Soooo try again and foot on brake MAGIC it start and press button again it stops

ALL fixed working perfectly again.

TILL NEXT TIME

this car is a worry

Thanks again Martin for trying

Jeff

Its not over yet.....(the trying)

Take the battery out of the car (disconnect it) for 5 minutes and reboot the CAN bus.

I have had it disconnected all night as I had it on charge.

still had the same "no start" problem.

and why do the headlight come on and won't turn off

It's all a mystery

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

they sound like long shots to me

but I repect your experience with these cars

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...