Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed a huge puddle of oil last night under the car. Checked the stick and its on the low level.

Popped the hood and I can see oil spray under the bonnet. Seems like its coming from the BOV ( plumb back ) and the turbo has a lot of oil over it. But the speed of the leak seems to be faster than a spray could ever cause.

Started it up and cant see exactly where its coming from. Gave it a few revs and noticed the exhaust smelled very strong. There is no clouds of smoke but it looked like an oil/water mix had sprayed out the exhaust.

Oil coming out the zorst, this cant be good can it?

What have I broke?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36211-this-cant-be-good-can-it/
Share on other sites

The water coming out the exhaust *could* be normal cold start condensation. Was it dead cold when you started it? If yes then it's probably just mixing with oil in the zorst.

That being the case, maybe one of your oil lines is leaking. The oil is misting and getting into everything under the bonnet, even the induction system. This would explain oil everywhere including exhaust. It's insidious stuff oil (that's it's job!). It gets everywhere and you don't need much of it to make a huge mess. The puddle may be from the source of the leak when sitting and draining from the line.

Head gasket has been at the back of my mind from the start but just trying not to think its that. It was dark last night, I will check today when I get home from work.

An old car I used to own blew the head gasket and it made the oil level rise coz water got in there.

My oil level is low though. Or can you blow it without the sump getting contaminated?

None taken, but it happened at 11.00pm last night and I am still at work today.

Of course I am going to get it checked by a pro I just wanted to know if people could diagnose from my symptoms or had the exact same thing happen to them as well. Or point me in the right direction. I wanted to have an idea on what could cause this problem so I didnt walk into a mechanic with a blindfold on.

Isnt that the whole friggin reason this forum is here? So owners of like cars can help eachother out?

Dont tell me you have never asked a question on this forum that you couldn't of asked a mechanic instead. no offence.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...