Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My first post here... But I desperately need some advice with my GTR.

2 and a half years ago I bought a shiny '93 R32 GTR in mint condition. It looked great, it ran great, I was pretty darn happy with it.

But since then it's been a downward spiral - almost everything in the car has started glitching or failing and it runs like an old bomb.

The previous owner had full service and repair history, I continued that tradition, it's been regularly serviced, and I've paid to have parts replaced as recommended by my mechanics (been to 2 different ones so far).

I've spent probably $8k on it in that time, not enough I know but I've got 2 months to go before it's fully paid off...

Just some of my problems:

- Loss of torque, particularly bad on cold start but sometimes random like after I've stopped at lights. There's a sort of coughing, spluttering noise from the engine and I feel the car pull backwards before launching forward again. Pressing down on the gas just produces a louder noise but not a lot of revs, like it's really laggy. There seems to be a variable threshold I have to push it to before the car will suddenly decide to accelerate.

- When the car does go, it seems to do it reluctantly. I feel vibration thru the pedals, kind of like there's a lot of friction going on in the engine - like it's got no oil in it, even though it does. The sweet roar of the revs have been replaced with a throaty, gritty, rough sound. A strong smell of burning oil comes into the cabin.

- The car gets coated in black soot around the rear end. My mechanics say this is "normal" but it never used to do that.

- Steering has gotten harder, like there's little assitance from the car anymore. It also "lags" so I can turn it a bit and that doesn't translate into immediate steering.

- I got a brand new ceramic sports clutch, which made a solid difference for a couple months, but now feels even worse than before. The defined friction point seems gone. When I push it in I hear a noise like "clack, clack, clack..." like something impacting on something else, loud enough that people sometimes look and wonder what the hell it is. When the car's idling in neutral there is an audible "scraping" noise like what you'd get if you dragged sheet metal along the road.

- HICAS light always comes on after 15 mins.

In a nutshell, the car turns heads for the wrong reasons now - it sounds like it's dying.

Every time I take my car in my mechanics say "it's just getting old" or "it drives like a normal GTR" but I don't believe it, the difference in the short time I've owned it is like black and white.

I did notice the car runs fantastic after a service, but that would only last a week. Now it only lasts a day, if that.

I'm told my air flow sensors are probably close to failing, and if I invested in a PowerFC unit it might solve some of my issues. What do you guys think?

The biggest problem for me is the labour cost of getting these issues investigated, which have never resulted in a permanent fix. If you know any good mechanics in Perth who aren't too expensive, that would be nice as well.

Thanks!

-Kenny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362201-r32-gtr-engine-troubles/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

- Loss of torque, particularly bad on cold start but sometimes random like after I've stopped at lights. There's a sort of coughing, spluttering noise from the engine and I feel the car pull backwards before launching forward again. Pressing down on the gas just produces a louder noise but not a lot of revs, like it's really laggy. There seems to be a variable threshold I have to push it to before the car will suddenly decide to accelerate.

Run diagnostics via CONSULT, if that doesnt reveal anything get a dyno run to check AFRs.

- When the car does go, it seems to do it reluctantly. I feel vibration thru the pedals, kind of like there's a lot of friction going on in the engine - like it's got no oil in it, even though it does. The sweet roar of the revs have been replaced with a throaty, gritty, rough sound. A strong smell of burning oil comes into the cabin.

Sounds like its missing - could be AFMs/coilpacks. CONSULT/Dyno as above.

Oil smell could be gearbox shifter boots dead.

- The car gets coated in black soot around the rear end. My mechanics say this is "normal" but it never used to do that.

Cat is probably stuffed. Also your car could be running rich. Again, CONSULT/Dyno. I *think* running rich for a long time will eventually kill a cat.

- Steering has gotten harder, like there's little assitance from the car anymore. It also "lags" so I can turn it a bit and that doesn't translate into immediate steering.

If you havent replaced the fluid yet, do that. Check that the alternator is charging properly, should be 14-14.8 volts IIRC. Usually if the voltage is low enough to affect the attessa ECUs you'll know about it because you cant start he car.... maybe check the voltage at the attessa ECU (under the parcel shelf). Or is it the HICAS ECU that causes this.... cant remember. Search for it.

- I got a brand new ceramic sports clutch, which made a solid difference for a couple months, but now feels even worse than before. The defined friction point seems gone. When I push it in I hear a noise like "clack, clack, clack..." like something impacting on something else, loud enough that people sometimes look and wonder what the hell it is. When the car's idling in neutral there is an audible "scraping" noise like what you'd get if you dragged sheet metal along the road.

- HICAS light always comes on after 15 mins.

In a nutshell, the car turns heads for the wrong reasons now - it sounds like it's dying.

Every time I take my car in my mechanics say "it's just getting old" or "it drives like a normal GTR" but I don't believe it, the difference in the short time I've owned it is like black and white.

I did notice the car runs fantastic after a service, but that would only last a week. Now it only lasts a day, if that.

I'm told my air flow sensors are probably close to failing, and if I invested in a PowerFC unit it might solve some of my issues. What do you guys think?

Powerfc would only be a bandaid over something that's not working properly, so bad solution IMO. Fix what's broken.

It sounds like your mechanic has lower standards than you do, so you need to find someone better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...