Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im not sure which bearing it is or even if its a bearing.

The car makes a 'Gambling' noise when the clutch is not pressed in. And after 1 - 2 mins of driving it goes away.

I read a thread on here but it didnt really give a straight answer.

Thanks

Spigot, thrust/throw-out bearing take your pick....

Sorry you did say the magic word "Gambling"

This noise doesn't mean that the bearing is stuffed, as it may just need some lube.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362232-what-bearing/#findComment-5780685
Share on other sites

haha gambling?

its your spigot bearing.. thrust/throw out/release bearing.. what ever you wanna call it only engages when ur foot is on the clutch

Next time u do a clutch or have ur gear box out replace it its not expensive to buy... more of a pain in the arse to replace if u dont have the right tools haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362232-what-bearing/#findComment-5782300
Share on other sites

Hey im not sure which bearing it is or even if its a bearing.

The car makes a 'Gambling' noise when the clutch is not pressed in. And after 1 - 2 mins of driving it goes away.

I read a thread on here but it didnt really give a straight answer.

Thanks

haha gambling?

its your spigot bearing.. thrust/throw out/release bearing.. what ever you wanna call it only engages when ur foot is on the clutch

Next time u do a clutch or have ur gear box out replace it its not expensive to buy... more of a pain in the arse to replace if u dont have the right tools haha

He said foot not on the clutch (not pressed in) - and that noise isn't the throw-out bearing - it's the input shaft bearing. Much more painful, and very common. And if you have a grumbling/whining noise in all gears except for 4th then that's your cluster shaft bearing - another common one to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362232-what-bearing/#findComment-5782473
Share on other sites

ahh pretty sure thats what i said, foot on the clutch engages release bearing.. so therefore if his foot isnt on the clutch the bearing isnt engaged

spigot bearing is in the end of the crank......throw out/ release opens the clutch

but yes could also be your input shaft bearing and once it lubricates it shuts the hell up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362232-what-bearing/#findComment-5782551
Share on other sites

Thrust bearings can do this in Skylines, particularly with aftermarket clutches. My Exedy thrust bearing can be noisy at times when you would think it is rollover noise. The way to test this is to apply a small amount of pressure to the clutch pedal - not enough to engage the clutch, but just enough to press the bearing up against the pressure plate...if the noise goes away then it is your thrust bearing. If it's still there and doesn't go away until the clutch pedal is fully pressed in, then it is most likely an input shaft bearing.

If you've narrowed it down to the thrust bearing, spraying some lithium grease onto the input shaft retainer and thrust bearing through the clutch release arm cavity can help silence the noise.

The fact it goes away after a while suggests temperature and/or oil viscosity related - you can change the gearbox oil viscosity to a lighter grade to try and mask it, or you may actually be running an incorrect oil in your gearbox in the first place. Try repacing it with 75w90 and see if that does anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362232-what-bearing/#findComment-5783800
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...