Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual Boost Controller

Felipe
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
TRE-DEUCE Community Regular

TRE-DEUCE

Posted
Posted

hey! all!

do we really neeed a normal boost controller instead of a manual boost controller? i mean for a daily driver i couldnt think of any point to keeep changing your boost OR IS THERE ???? (question for you gurus)

are normal auto booost controller from cheapo chain as goood as stufff from jap (branded)?

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey! all!

do we really neeed a normal boost controller instead of a manual boost controller? i mean for a daily driver i couldnt think of any point to keeep changing your boost OR IS THERE ???? (question for you gurus)

are normal auto booost controller from cheapo chain as goood as stufff from jap (branded)?

From what i have heard, the manual boost controller is more prone to spiking. Having said that, i have a turbotech manual controller, and it worked really well for my application. (street driven, very mild r33 gtst) It cost me $30 odd, and i wont even be looking at changing it out until i have upgraded the turbo, fuel system and ecu.

Edited by cannabiscorpse
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

you can certainly make your own boost controller, i did. it was just a copy of a turbotech one and cost me more than a turbotech one (but i needed it that day).

as for what is boost spike, it is where the boost spikes to higher than what it is set at. this is generally only for a split second, not enough to do any damage.

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

what do you mean by spiking ?

so for manual boost controllers is either turbosmart or turbotech eh? is it DIY'able ?

Spiking refers to when the desired boost level is increased momentarily. For example you set your controller to 10psi and it shoots up to 14 instead. This is a problem that a turbo car owner obviously does not want! Im sure there is more companies that produce these items other that turbotech and turbosmart, although these are the most common that i see. I can say that before i bought mine i looked around, and went on the recommendation of others and bought the turbotech one that costs next to nothing and doesnt seem to have issues with spiking.

As far as the diy aspect of it goes, you seriously cant get ANYTHING easier to install. It took me seriously less than 5 minutes to put on. So ridiculously simple! Getting your target boost is the longest part of the exercise, which was done in 15 minutes or less with an allen and some driving to test it.

Also there is a thread here somewhere with a diy install process, which is what i used to do it, being a noob!

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

Definitely a yes on the gauge. Factory item is poo. As far as getting a tune, that's dependend entirely on your set up and car. My stockish r33 gtst is at it's limit on 10psi and gives me occasional flat spots. My next move is a retuned ecu and then I will run 12psi. General rule of thumb is that most stock cars will take small boost increases without having to remap the ecu. Every car is different, but most with r33's that I have seen are limited to 10psi without the ecu upgrade.

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

on the guages, do we reallly need the other (water and oil) we cant just have boost guage by it self?

when you chnage your boost to 10psi did it make a big differ?

retuned your ecu, you retuning stock euc ?

I have only got the boost gauge mate- i figure the others are more for high end engnes or cars that do track work etc. Dont think they are necessary on a mild streeter, however they cant hurt. The psi increase does make a difference, especially over the stock boost solenoid because it has a 2 stage boost delivery on the r33. (4.5psi below 4500rpm, 7psi above 4500rpm)

Having said that i had already disconnected the 2 stage boost (from a thread in the diy section- 2 minute job) and with my exhaust mine already hit 8-9psi.

My ecu is still stock at the moment, but as soon as im back on the road (august, courtesy of a stupid dui charge) I will be getting a remap done and running 12psi. thumbsup.gif

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

as above, make sure you have at least a cat back exhaust before you go upping the boost, but full turbo back exhaust is better.

as to how much boost you can run before the ECU starts to throw a tantrum, it will be anywhere from 10psi to about 13psi. even if you only go up to 11psi you will see a decent gain in power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...