Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm really interested in starting an Automotive Apprenticeship, and I'm wondering if anyone knows of any performance workshops in Perth which might be taking on new apprentices.

I've tried so many different workshops, but they all have apprentices already.

Could someone please give me a list of some performance workshops?

Thanks! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362298-automotive-apprenticeship/
Share on other sites

I'm really interested in starting an Automotive Apprenticeship, and I'm wondering if anyone knows of any performance workshops in Perth which might be taking on new apprentices.

I've tried so many different workshops, but they all have apprentices already.

Could someone please give me a list of some performance workshops?

Thanks! :)

Unless your 15 dont do it.

Wait until your mature age so you don't get shafted.

$6.80 p/h for first years under 21 pinch.gif

too be honest ya better off going through a car dealership like nissan mitsubishi etc for the first couple years

I know i wouldn't like a green apprentice working on my import/performance car

Unless your 15 dont do it.

Wait until your mature age so you don't get shafted.

$6.80 p/h for first years under 21 pinch.gif

i wouldnt wanna be 21+ earning $12 an hour!

but i do agree i did a 4year apprenticeship now im qualified and im only 19. i wouldnt bother unless i was 18 or under, the award rate has gone up to around $7.50 i think for a 1st year, 2nd is $9-$10, 3rd year is around $12-$13, and 4th is $15 something an hour but thats the minimum wage.

these days apprentices get a lot more then they did a year ago, u get like 4 or 6 grand all up to spend on tools, when i did mine it was only 800 straight up (tool voucher only) then 500 every 6 months (about 3 times i think)

I did 2 years of a 4 year mechanical apprenticeship on the old $800 for tools and $500 every 6 months for the first 2 years. I started when I was 19 and was the best and the worst at the same time lol.

If you start as a mature age you will start on like $15 an hour at least. That's enough to not die at least and still afford your car repayment ;)

If you want perks go with a Dealership but you'll be "servicing" batteries for at least a year and you may get an oil change or a coolant flush in. I went with an independent Euro Garage and well, you do as much as you are able to handle. I was changing suspension on my second day (with the guidance of the tech of course).

In all honesty though, if you are in any way influenced by how much money you earn - mechanics is best left to monkeys unless you plan on running your own shop.

Just my 2 cents

If you REALLY want to be a mechanic (and think about it long and hard, cos its not for everyone!) then getting a job at a small independant place is the best place to start. You learn so much more then at a dealership. My first job on my very first day was helping a tech do a head on a Nissan S-Cargo! You get experience in a vast variety of cars, and learn just how shit Holdens really are! :P I worked at a small place in Malaga for a year, now work for Mazda. Mazda is great, much easier, but you dont learn as much as I did when I worked in Malaga.

Having said that, as soon as I'm qualified I'm getting the f**k out of there cos I HATE this industry! But like I said before, if you're made for it, then its a great career. I work with a few blokes who I know will work as a mechanic for years and years, yet at least 50% of my tafe class will quit within the first 5 years.

Finally, you dont want to start out at a performance workshop. Think a normal mechanic workshop is stressful? Performance is soooooo much worse...

good advice is the key i have been a mechanic for over 9 years, did my apprentiship with M.I.T.A. and worked for a nissan dealership.

I learnt all the basics with maintain a vehicle there then went chasing the coin up north working for rio tinto in one of there light vehicle workshops

it dosnt mater where you do your apprentiship because every car is different and they all have there problems

But you need to leran how a motor works before you can build a performance engine or anything like that and the best place to keep up with the tech side of the game is to work in a dealership because they invest millions of dollars in to there vehicles

If you REALLY want to be a mechanic (and think about it long and hard, cos its not for everyone!) then getting a job at a small independant place is the best place to start. You learn so much more then at a dealership. My first job on my very first day was helping a tech do a head on a Nissan S-Cargo! You get experience in a vast variety of cars, and learn just how shit Holdens really are! :P I worked at a small place in Malaga for a year, now work for Mazda. Mazda is great, much easier, but you dont learn as much as I did when I worked in Malaga.

Having said that, as soon as I'm qualified I'm getting the f**k out of there cos I HATE this industry! But like I said before, if you're made for it, then its a great career. I work with a few blokes who I know will work as a mechanic for years and years, yet at least 50% of my tafe class will quit within the first 5 years.

Finally, you dont want to start out at a performance workshop. Think a normal mechanic workshop is stressful? Performance is soooooo much worse...

Rhys, you really hate working in the industry don't you? What are you looking into next... an office job?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...