Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Wondering if anyone on here can point me in the direction of someone with a scan tool to plug into my V35 sedan?

Air bag light has started to flash and the usual reset only lasts for a day.

My local Nissan dealer usually wont touch imports.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/
Share on other sites

Hi Geoff this is the wrong place to be asking such advice. Post a thread in the V35 section - and in fact you will already find a topic there on it.

But I would take it to Main North Nissan if I were you - pretty sure they will service the V35 since it is so similar to the 350Z.

BTW saw your V35 in Nuri a few weeks back parked in the carpark at the park with the train in it opposite BP/Subway. Looked around for you, but couldn't find you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5782483
Share on other sites

Thanks Andrew,

Was hoping that there may have been someone else other than a dealer that could help.

Anyone with a Carman or Launch scanner could do the job as well.

Spotted your car leaving not long after I arrived in my Ute. Missus drives the 35.

Cheers

Geoff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5782526
Share on other sites

andrew,

he's already asked me about it. told him what to look for as well. its case of finding someone dwon there with a carmen or launch to read the thing. I'm 2'5 hrs away by plane and I'm not heading that way anytime soon.

who does your svc work? (they may be able to help him :) )

in general nissan is nissan. the diagnostics haven't really changed (unless we are talking C3) on any of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5782530
Share on other sites

I do all my own work on the car Chris - a mechanic of any variety has not touched the thing yet.

As I said go to Main North Nissan, Craig in the spare parts division is an import supporter (he used to help me out on spares for my R34 all the time no problems), and they are an SAU:SA club sponsor (so if you joined up you would get 10% off too), so I would definitely try there Geoff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5782570
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The common problem with airbag light flashing is loss of contact in yellow conectors below passenger or driver seats. There are two of them for two safety devices that related to SRS system (in accident they will brake a lower part of seat to keep you down) Fix them and reset SRS by pedal.

http://history.nissa...FETY/index.html

http://history.nissa...MAIN/index.html

http://history.nissa...XTER/main1.html

Main North Nissan refuses to service V35 and does not matter who are you and where from.

Edited by Nicko_2010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5887191
Share on other sites

"CAS804"..... as basic as they come

If you have an iphone or ipad...... buy the OBDII WIFI connector and download one of the OBD2 apps for realtime diagnostics :)

I did, it doesnt work unfortunately

could not connect with ECU

Edited by Nicko_2010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5900676
Share on other sites

which ABD adapter do you have?

The Kiwi PLX one has videos being used on a G35 on YouTube, and it supports both OBDII and CAN, which our car needs. I have been looking at getting one of these for some time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362340-scan-tool-v35/#findComment-5900741
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...