Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys noob question here i was in my mates gtr r33 manual and while we were kicking around i was watching the cluster and his boost gauge was going up and down like mad etc now question is (recently only brought a skyline new to it) didnt wanna embarrass myself by asking him lol so ,i have a auto gts-t and i noticed my gauge sits on 0 and slightly moves... hardly at all is my gauge dodgy or is it because its a auto or? And yes the turbo works.... It's all stock with a blitz turbo timer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362524-r33gts-t-boost-gauge/
Share on other sites

If it constantly sits on zero, even on idle the gauge is not working.

Could either by a faulty gauge or as simple as the vacuum line in the engine bay being broken (in which case you will most likely have a vacuum leak).

  • 4 weeks later...

"Update" Yea guys was a vacuum leak from the manifold... was a obvious split hose which was funny because the mechanic(ultra tune there so ultra... they don't tune skylines lol..) which just did the service said there wasn't a vacuum leak and was trying to tell me it could be something to do with something behind the cluster... fed up with the issue i purchased a boost gauge and was gonna install it myself by reading the posts on here so what do i find spilt when tracing the line from that little black box...... was in plain sight how the mechanic missed it is beyond me... sometimes it is just better to do things yourself.. Oh i no longer take my car to that mechanic anymore...

Cheer's for the help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...