Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


R33Gts-T Boost Gauge


Recommended Posts

Hey guys noob question here i was in my mates gtr r33 manual and while we were kicking around i was watching the cluster and his boost gauge was going up and down like mad etc now question is (recently only brought a skyline new to it) didnt wanna embarrass myself by asking him lol so ,i have a auto gts-t and i noticed my gauge sits on 0 and slightly moves... hardly at all is my gauge dodgy or is it because its a auto or? And yes the turbo works.... It's all stock with a blitz turbo timer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it constantly sits on zero, even on idle the gauge is not working.

Could either by a faulty gauge or as simple as the vacuum line in the engine bay being broken (in which case you will most likely have a vacuum leak).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when driving in any gear and you floor it the guage should move to around +3 on the stock guage

this is around 350mmhg under 4500rpm and then to around +5 after 4500rpm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

"Update" Yea guys was a vacuum leak from the manifold... was a obvious split hose which was funny because the mechanic(ultra tune there so ultra... they don't tune skylines lol..) which just did the service said there wasn't a vacuum leak and was trying to tell me it could be something to do with something behind the cluster... fed up with the issue i purchased a boost gauge and was gonna install it myself by reading the posts on here so what do i find spilt when tracing the line from that little black box...... was in plain sight how the mechanic missed it is beyond me... sometimes it is just better to do things yourself.. Oh i no longer take my car to that mechanic anymore...

Cheer's for the help guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why is that? i heard somewhere it cuts off for a sec as in not to put to much stress on the gearbox? Dunno if there's any truth to that but something along those lines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...