Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic says, I'm after a S2 ECU and possibly loom if anyone has one. Any 4wd NEO ecu and loom will be ok.

Cheers

Aaron

I have a 0v801 S2 for a RS4S S2 manual here, has NISTUNE fitted already. ECU, plus nistune 350 delivered..

Hmmm, very tempted.

I'm looking to wire it up to my s1 engine so I'm not sure if it'll even work at this stage. It should tho, even if I have to replace some sensors with NEO ones. From what I've heard the hardest part is getting around the traction control but I'm pretty sure the RS4S doesn't have tc. Is this correct?

Hmmm, very tempted.

I'm looking to wire it up to my s1 engine so I'm not sure if it'll even work at this stage. It should tho, even if I have to replace some sensors with NEO ones. From what I've heard the hardest part is getting around the traction control but I'm pretty sure the RS4S doesn't have tc. Is this correct?

Mine didnt have it, did have the flanges and so on on the inlet mainfold but they were never drilled.

I dont even know if the sensors ARE different, need to get someone to look at the part numbers.

Let me know anyway, it is cheap, i think its nearly 300 just for the nistune board, i bought another ECU when i had my stagea so i could swap them over, but i wrote it off so i kept the nistune ECU. Paid 120 for the ECU and then another 100 to get the board installed.

Edited by kjb_r33
  • 4 weeks later...

Mine didnt have it, did have the flanges and so on on the inlet mainfold but they were never drilled.

I dont even know if the sensors ARE different, need to get someone to look at the part numbers.

Let me know anyway, it is cheap, i think its nearly 300 just for the nistune board, i bought another ECU when i had my stagea so i could swap them over, but i wrote it off so i kept the nistune ECU. Paid 120 for the ECU and then another 100 to get the board installed.

Do you still have the ECU for sale? and what is the complete part number of it, i have a 23740 0v802 that i think is stuffed and need a replacement asap? let me know

cheers,

Do you still have the ECU for sale? and what is the complete part number of it, i have a 23740 0v802 that i think is stuffed and need a replacement asap? let me know

cheers,

Yeah, still got it, its a 23710 0v801, provided yours is a NEO rs4s it will work

Edited by kjb_r33

It's been a while as I've had other things to get done first, but I'm at the stage now where I really need to sort this ECU out. If anyone has one PM me what you want for it.

Cheers

Aaron

If you are going to the trouble of fitting a new loom why don't you fit an R33 GTST one and then you can use the much more common ecu and get a plug in Link for it or even plug in an R32 ecu and nistune that.

I think the R34 will be a better match as the r32 doesn't have VCT. I want a nistune as I can't afford any other management right now. If i was going to get something stand alone I'd wire it from scratch, but the S2 Stagea ecu will (hopefully) be mostly just pin swaps to get it to work.

You can use Z32 which does have vct in the GTsT plug but if you want an R34 one get the Nistuned one above - auto ecu will work just as well on a manual as nistune will be setting the afrs and timing anyway.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Mate

I have a adapter loom for S1 Stagea to piggyback an R32 ECU (or Z32 ecu with a couple of wiring tweaks). It comes with an R32 ecu remapped for 550cc injectors and z32 ecu.

You can have the lot for 300. You can let the factory ECU run the vct.

Cheers

Anthony

That sounds promising, but what year is the factory ecu from? Mine is the one that was only used for 1 month of production so I doubt it'll fit, is it possible for you to check the standard Stagea ecu number for me? Is the R32 ecu nistuned?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...