Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know if the R33/34 GTR front strut braces will fit a S1 260RS Stagea?

The running gear is 33 GTR, just curious as I'm looking at buying this strut brace: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19793&cat=394&page=1

On a side note, I finally got around to getting the suspension lowered with TEIN Super Flex coilovers plus some whiteline goodness replacing bushes and upper control arms and a few other things done. Getting a full forged engine rebuild next month, will post up the details soon... can't wait, getting closer to finishing of this car which will be used mostly for street and weekends etc.... hoping to get something over 350rwkw, will need a better clutch before I go any further.

Cheers,

Adam

Here's some of the work getting done on the motor....

Taking my head off and getting it cleaned and polished ready for a bottom end that's already been assembled at the mechanics.

Going to reuse some parts that are all under 10,000km old, this includes my HKS iridium plugs, HKS 660C injectors HKS Fuel rail and HKS adjustable cam gears. Also keeping the HKS GT-SS turbos which are practically new.

Adding to the head:

TOMEI Camshafts Poncam RB26DETT 9163 Type B (9.15 lift 260 degree) TOMEI Valve Springs Set Type-B RB26DETT 9784 TOMEI Metal Gasket Combination Set RB26DETT 13436

The bottom end has been prepared seperately, I'm replacing mine due to a small hairline crack which has been leaking a little water....

rb26 bottom end. block chemicaly cleaned, bored 40thou, crack tested, new welsh plugs, de-burred. r33 crank cryo frozen for strength, balanced, crack tested, micro polished. new n1 oil pump and n1 water pump. new oil squiters in block, new nitto H beam rods, cp 40thou pistons, nismo bearings. full arp head and main stud kit, tomei oil restrictor.

I got a larger front mount too, which I figured would be good for the extra boost this motor will be able to handle, ended up getting a HKS GT intecooler, I didn't get the larger one they have as that would've been silly so got the 600X300X100 sized core.

Also getting the Kakimoto Full Mega N1 exhaust... hoping that fits up alright I already have HKS dump pipes and an apexi front pipe.

Car will be getting the final bits done in a couple weeks. I posted some pics of my car a while back, once the weather fines up I'll take some more photos to share as everything comes together.

Doubt the strut brace will fit or they would list C34 Stagea. Why didn't you get an RB30? Should still make 350awkw with the right ecu (what are you using) and a good tune. Got a new fuel pump? Get some copper plugs.

The RB30 would've costed me more in the end... after the suspension and other bits I've done I'm starting to get a little heat from the misses so I've had to be a little careful to leave some coin to keep her onside. I had a crack in my block and needed an answer quickly and in the end the bottom end came in at a pretty good price, it only cost was for materials really and the labour was free.... another mechanic did the work then opted for the 30 and decided to sell. He was going to keep the 26 he had done then I called and had the cash to pay straight up to cover his costs so we both came out of the transaction okay.

I've got an Apexi power fc at the moment... The fuel pump is an intank nismo, I believe these are 280lph and with the bigger injectors should be okay??

I wouldn't mind changing the ecu, just waiting on e85 to be more readily available in QLD then was going to change to a dual map setup with a Haltech or the other option was the Vipec. What ecu do you run? From what I've learnt reading forums and places like this the ecu doesn't play into the numbers (kw) so much its the tuner who can make the motor sing?

The RB30 would've costed me more in the end... after the suspension and other bits I've done I'm starting to get a little heat from the misses so I've had to be a little careful to leave some coin to keep her onside. I had a crack in my block and needed an answer quickly and in the end the bottom end came in at a pretty good price, it only cost was for materials really and the labour was free.... another mechanic did the work then opted for the 30 and decided to sell. He was going to keep the 26 he had done then I called and had the cash to pay straight up to cover his costs so we both came out of the transaction okay.

I've got an Apexi power fc at the moment... The fuel pump is an intank nismo, I believe these are 280lph and with the bigger injectors should be okay??

I wouldn't mind changing the ecu, just waiting on e85 to be more readily available in QLD then was going to change to a dual map setup with a Haltech or the other option was the Vipec. What ecu do you run? From what I've learnt reading forums and places like this the ecu doesn't play into the numbers (kw) so much its the tuner who can make the motor sing?

Yep Nismo should be fine. PFC will be fine. I have a Link G4 but yes the right tuner is the important part. And driveabilty - minimum lag and max midrange power is what makes the car fun to drive not the kw at max revs!

Yeah I had a look on a site on Japan last night and picked up they had different part numbers for a Cusco strut bar for the GTR VS STAGEA.

Thanks guys for confirming this. I did notice a Haltech group buy is on at the moment. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360760-haltech-ecu-group-buy/page__gopid__5788102#entry5788102

Is anyone running a Platinum Sport 2000? From all reports these are pretty decent and could make it easier to unlock the full potential from the mods I've got.

Owner of my local workshop is making about 550awkw in his 10 second GTR with a PFC. Spend your $$$ on other things unless you really want to change and you have money to burn!

Good call, ecu mod is taking a back seat.. I guess the doubt started to creep in after a few shops keep plugging these new ecu's who go on about how much better they are.

I'm thinking of getting my diffs done as I've got a small issue which I've got a couple posts regarding this problem in the drivetrain forum. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362676-troubleshooters-slipping-and-vibration-feeling-on-full-lock-turns/

These diffs look to be good and from what I've read are the most streetable, would be a perfect time to do this seeing the engine will be out, just checking on availability. RHD Japan are good suppliers, I got all my Tomei and HKS parts paid for and received in under 2 weeks both times, the aussie dollar is doing really good too so I could get those diff option below delivered to my door for a little over $2600.

NISMO Front 1.5way LSD Skyline GT-R (Main SKU : 23059)

NISMO GT LSD Pro w/ LSD oil Silvia 180SX Skyline Fairlady Z Cefiro Laurel Stagea (Main SKU : 53473)

I guess getting back to what you said about money to burn, I don't really want to be throwing money away though I don't know if there's much that can be done if I went for a rebuild/repair option locally. I'm going to hit my mechanic up on Tuesday (public holiday Monday) and see whether there is a cheaper option.

Might have found a cheaper way to get the feeling corrected in the diff, read this on another forum... hmm so dont worry about the centre diff, just do the front, not sure what the cost of a torque up will be though it might be a more sensible option.

Torque Up Getting my diff touched up this weekend, getting what the japanese call a torque up, spring plates are being replaced with NISMO ones and if I understand correctly, two disc plates are coming out and two more springs are going in, this will tighten everything up and the diff will come on faster and harder, my tuner recommends this over an LSD for the rear, its cheaper and just as effective, plus it is more street friendly. Then use the money you would have spent and buy a Carbonetics LSD for the front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...