Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone in canberra done a rb25 into r32 conversion? I Just need to talk to someone about wiring, as the topics on here aren't too clear.

I will be using the rb25 loom with r33 ecu and a microtec (model escapes me for now) and was curious about what wires etc need to be added/spliced to the r32 body loom/dash in order to keep aircon and wipers running as usual? Anyone got any suggestions or know about this?

Original motor is an RB20DET manual.

Hope that question is easy to understand, sounded clearer in my head haha.

I've done it in my R32.

You will need to rewire the Wipers, not too difficult I think the colours matched. I found a wiring diagram somewhere on the internet which was much better than some peoples "guides".

I never bothered with wiring the A/C because it didn't work anyway, but I think it only requires the blue compressor wire.

I would just use the RB20 ecu, the Microguess doesnt have output for the VCT from memory.

Im sure others can clarify

In doing this I would need to re-map the ecu yeah? I have an r33 loom and computer, so I would rather just swap loom and ecu instead of paying through the nose to tune a stock motor (well, kinda stock).

I have 2 looms and 2 ecus, one with the microtec (unsure whether it does VCT or not) and one without, so I can use either. Doing the wiring doesnt bother me, just there is a lack of diagrams out there.

Yeah fair enough, I'm of the belief that NISTUNE would be much better for a street car than an Microtech.

there are a heap of people using the R32 loom and ecu for 25 conversions, you can also get a MSD RPM switch to trigger the VCT.

So yeah depend on what you want to do,

Nistune looks stock and is better suited to street cars.

Nah, it's not that one I used but looks like it's more helpful than the first doco I tried to use.

Hi Kyle,

I put an R33 RB25DET and gearbox in my R32 GTS-T a few years ago, I can't really answer your wiring question because I had the wiring for mine done by an auto electrician... But for the tail-shaft you are better off getting a single piece made custom to fit with a decent set of uni joints if you plan on extracting a reasonable amount of power out of the engine.

I had mine made at the Diff Doctor in Fyshwick and it cost me about $600 (he doesn't balance them though so you will need to find a shop that can balance it, I think there is one in Mitchell) - make sure you have it balanced properly otherwise you'll get a bad vibration through the car under load.

All you need to do is measure the distance from the back of the gearbox (where the front yoke goes in) to the diff and take the measurement to the shop along with the old tail shaft (so he can use the rear yoke for your diff) and he'll weld it all together for you.

Cheers

Mick

Thanks for that Mick. I am trying to avoid going custom because of the $$ factor. The place you are talking about in mitchell is M&A Engineering yeah? I work around the corner from them so ill go have a chat tomorrow about it.

The bloke that I bought motor and box off had them in an r31 that used to have a 20det in it before the 25, so im curious if the shaft will be a straight swap into the 32? If so ill just buy it off him to save the hassle. He wont be needing it as he is aparently going custom to fit whatever box goes into it (wont be an rb).

Im not looking for massive amounts of power, Motor has 175rwkw (got a dyno sheet from esp) on 6psi, so ill go 14psi once I get some splitfire coil packs. Motor has been rebuilt using acl gold bearings, aside from that has a HKS plenum, fleabay turbo (goes hard but) and microtec Ltx8 ecu. Not looking to push it more than that, its only in a 1200kg 32 after all lol.

Just need to sell the 20 and associated stuff and its a go ahead. Reckon I could knock it over in a weekend with a few mates? We have had shitloads of experience with motor swaps and stuff so im guessing we should be able to.

Cheers,

Kyle

Edited by k_d

My advise is when you sell the RB20, ditch the Microguess and Get Nistune, you wont regret it :)

Was the guys R31 local or an Import?

Local ones has a Live rear end the same as a VL commodore, so the Shafts are different.

P.s I'm normally good at spelling...but I has beer!

\

Thanks for that Mick. I am trying to avoid going custom because of the $$ factor. The place you are talking about in mitchell is M&A Engineering yeah? I work around the corner from them so ill go have a chat tomorrow about it.

The bloke that I bought motor and box off had them in an r31 that used to have a 20det in it before the 25, so im curious if the shaft will be a straight swap into the 32? If so ill just buy it off him to save the hassle. He wont be needing it as he is aparently going custom to fit whatever box goes into it (wont be an rb).

Im not looking for massive amounts of power, Motor has 175rwkw (got a dyno sheet from esp) on 6psi, so ill go 14psi once I get some splitfire coil packs. Motor has been rebuilt using acl gold bearings, aside from that has a HKS plenum, fleabay turbo (goes hard but) and microtec Ltx8 ecu. Not looking to push it more than that, its only in a 1200kg 32 after all lol.

Just need to sell the 20 and associated stuff and its a go ahead. Reckon I could knock it over in a weekend with a few mates? We have had shitloads of experience with motor swaps and stuff so im guessing we should be able to.

Cheers,

Kyle

No problem Kyle,

Yeah, thats them M&A Engineering, they can probably make the whole shaft for you... I personally wouldnt bother using a stock 2 peice shaft because once you start pushing more power through it (and believe me, you will) it will start sh!tting the centre bearing regularly... I know from experience.

"Im not looking for massive amounts of power" - thats what I said to begin with but then I got bitten by the bug and had to have more... Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

Cheers

Mick

No problem Kyle,

Yeah, thats them M&A Engineering, they can probably make the whole shaft for you... I personally wouldnt bother using a stock 2 peice shaft because once you start pushing more power through it (and believe me, you will) it will start sh!tting the centre bearing regularly... I know from experience.

"Im not looking for massive amounts of power" - thats what I said to begin with but then I got bitten by the bug and had to have more... Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

Cheers

Mick

hmm I wouldn't go near an aftermarket tailshaft with a 10 foot barge pole. Unless you've spent a good deal on it. A lot of hi power skylines are running stock two piece tailshafts, so I don't see the issue with them.

i never had any issues with any of my single piece tailshafts.

Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! :D

know whats more fun...?:nyaanyaa:

Ok so motor and stuff are in, just need to mount battery in boot to allow for the cooler piping and attach heater hoses, and figure out why my power steering pump doesnt want to go on. Im keeping the 20 box for the time being, just need to not drive like a cock haha. It just needs wiring and the few little things above done then its good to go.

Edited by k_d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...