Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Wtb: R34 Gtr Front Lip Diffuser


evilsub
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Ok, so I thought I'd bump this, then start a new thread on the exact same topic.

I have been looking for a new (or new to me) front diffuser for my 34 gtr vspec, as mine is split. I am also missing the sump cover/undertray/second section of the oem part.

I called nissan spare parts for a new one, and they quoted me $1600, so stuff that. I will be tracking the car, and as such am avoiding fibreglass and carbon fibre (although at the nissan oem price, I could afford to snap a few hehe).

So, my questions are:

Does anyone have these two parts in reasonable condition that they want to sell me?

Do any companies make/mould plastic diffusers?

I am located in Sydney

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I salvaged my fractured front splitter through the magic of my panelbeater before he painted it - satin black.

Terry-109.jpg

And Nepean Valley Smash repairs 4735.3522 also repaired the fractured front splitter of my former V-Spec II before painting it Bayside Blue as body colour

Terry-49.jpg

But I guess, you're the best judge as to whether or not your current splitter is just fractured - or absolutely mangled

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I salvaged my fractured front splitter through the magic of my panelbeater before he painted it - satin black.

And Nepean Valley Smash repairs 4735.3522 also repaired the fractured front splitter of my former V-Spec II before painting it Bayside Blue as body colour

But I guess, you're the best judge as to whether or not your current splitter is just fractured - or absolutely mangled

My splitter is split in two places across the front edge, probs about 150mm each. My panel beater said it wasn't worth repairing/would cost too much to plastic weld. To what extent were yours damaged? And if you don't mind sharing, what did it cost as a ballpark figure?

Realistically it can be a cable tie job, but that would be a slap in the face to GTR drivers, and as such I was after something a bit neater.

how much are u asking for the diffuser second peice call me on 0417282710 steve

Is this directed at me? or Owgasm?

And to re iterate one of the previously asked questions, does anyone out there do plastic oem copies? Or are they only fibreglass and carbon fibre

Cheers to all input so far, keep it coming

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...