Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi have a 33 ive had for awhile

things have changed so need to get rid of it

all interior parts

front seats - $150

rear seats - $100

seat belts - $50 each

rear shelf - $30

carpet - $100

dash facia - $40

glove box - $30

centre console - $50

door cards - $40 each

rear plastics - $20 each

a / b / c pillar plastics - $10 each

hood lining - $80

exterior parts

boot - $100

series 1 wing - $50

series 2 wing - $50

m spec side skirts - $100

400r rear pods - $100

tail lights - $50 each

passenger side door

all glass

drivers side gaurd - $100

dash loom - $100

r33 front strut brace - $100

front brakes - $300 with rotors

rear brakes - $200

wipers

fuel tank - $100

brake lines

fuel lines etc etc

engine bay items

rb25det injectors - $80 or $100 on rail

rb25det CAS - $70

rb25 starter - $60

rb25 alternator - $60

rb25 inlet plenum - $100

rb25 turbo manifold - $50

rb25 series 2 engine loom - $150

rb25det 5 speed ecu - $100

rb25 engine cross member - $100

r33 power steering resevior - $40

r33 steering rack - $100

r33 engine fuse box - $40

rb25det series 1 coil packs - $80

rb25det series 2 coil packs - $100

rb25det series 1 coil pack loom no broken clips :) and ignighter - $60

rb25det series 2 coil pack loom no broken clips - $30

rb25det stock cams - $50

WILL ALSO DO THE SHELL AS FRONT OR REAR OR PANEL CUTS ETC ETC

PROBLY OTHER THINGS IVE FORGOTTEN

HIT ME UP FOR ANYTHING UR LOOKING FOR

CAN ALSO TEXT ME ON 0435494669

HAPPY TO MAIL SMALLER ITEMS

IM LOCATED NORTHERN NSW NEAR BYRON BAY

CAN DELIVER ITEMS AS FAR UP AS BRISSY IF WANTED

THANKS

Edited by team carefactor
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi everyone

yeah i do have series 1 inner gaurds

no drivers side window switch

no manual gear surround

yes i do have AFM

and yes do have both washer bottle motors

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5813468
Share on other sites

hi everyone

yeah i do have series 1 inner gaurds

no drivers side window switch

no manual gear surround

yes i do have AFM

and yes do have both washer bottle motors

thanks

Price?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364032-wrecking-r33/#findComment-5813536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...