Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 GTR which I use for track days and some weekend use, it is not a daily car.

I am wanting to upgrade the suspension arms and have been looking at some Cusco parts. I have recently been told about the Ikeya parts, but wanting to know if it is really worth it for the extra $$$ . Also, might be a stupid question, but it looks harder to setup Ikeya arms compared to the Cusco ones. Am I right?

These are the Ikeya parts I am looking at getting:

Ikeya:

Adjustable rear lower arms

Front upper link

Rear upper arms

Roll centre adjuster lower kit

Tie rod end

Traction adjuster rod

I am also currently running Tein RA coilovers which I will be getting rebuilt as the rear is knocking

Thanks in advance for your feedback

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364359-ikeya-suspension/
Share on other sites

Your going to get weekend warriors with good budgets saying ikea stuff is great and some more serious guys too as well as brand whores.

Then the budget conscious saying cusco, etc are just as good

Then the serious racers saying they all need improvements.

Depends what you want from the car and what you want to spend.

You could listen to the guys saying they are great and don't worry when this thread is seen they will come out of the woodwork. (I'd rekon 50% of them dont even own ikea arms, 30% would have them and not even drive the car regularly on the circuit or it's still in a workshop and the last

20% well who knows)

Seriously they work as do most other brands. They do have some refined geometry built into the lower arms but it's nothing to get all wet about.

Money well spent? Not in my opinion but it's yours that matters.

I had cusco arms on my R33 GTR but after awhile of some hard abuse the the Rear Upper Camber Arms Cracked quite badly both sides, and my front cusco castor arms aren't much better, i have bit the bullet and replaced all my arms every single one with the whole entire Ikeya Formula Catalog. Yes they may be expensive but you get what you paided for and the build quality is awesome very solid bits of gear, thats my opinion anyways.

I agree with nur33 you get what you pay for, I have 33 gtr do serious track work and run slicks last thing you want is cheap arms braking.i bought ikeya arms all round years ago and my car gets punished on the track every month,they are still mint.more than enough adjustment in them.

Edited by JGB33

Your going to get weekend warriors with good budgets saying ikea stuff is great and some more serious guys too as well as brand whores.

Then the budget conscious saying cusco, etc are just as good

Then the serious racers saying they all need improvements.

Depends what you want from the car and what you want to spend.

You could listen to the guys saying they are great and don't worry when this thread is seen they will come out of the woodwork. (I'd rekon 50% of them dont even own ikea arms, 30% would have them and not even drive the car regularly on the circuit or it's still in a workshop and the last

20% well who knows)

Seriously they work as do most other brands. They do have some refined geometry built into the lower arms but it's nothing to get all wet about.

Money well spent? Not in my opinion but it's yours that matters.

What do you suggest Risking ?

Custom built to requirements ?

Not nessisarily.

I fitted up a full set of arms to an r32 GTR today. They were Chinese arms, I threw the rod ends in the bin and replaced them with FK ends. Blasted the paint off them and TIG welded some plate gussets into them, re painted them black and fitted them up.

Happy days.

They were a Dam sight cheaper then ikea arms and as strong if not stronger.

Ultimately yes depending on the application you'd fabricate your own specifically for your use, it's not very common practice though as people don't want to spend the money unless it's a fairly serious circuit car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...