Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently did my GTS-R back to factory (see sig for the link to the video, you can see the quality).

Just in trims, moulds, rubbers etc etc was over $2,000 from Nissan brand new.

I couldn't justify putting the 20-25yo trims/moulds/rubbers on a brilliant paint job when restoring a car

So as i said, totally depends on what you want. If you wanted to use the stuff you have now, you'd save such costs but then the body would look like new, yet the plastic/rubber would all be 10-15yrs old, weathered and that type of thing.

You might sand back a panel and find out it's been in some damage, needs repair and all of a sudden you get a $500 extra added on for instance.

I mean some places will just respray the car for $1500 - but don't expect it to be a brilliant job. You will certainly find things you are not happy with, over time the paint can fade/peale tc. But for $1500 you can't complain @ that price.

Only you can decide :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5817516
Share on other sites

I recently did my GTS-R back to factory (see sig for the link to the video, you can see the quality).

Just in trims, moulds, rubbers etc etc was over $2,000 from Nissan brand new.

I couldn't justify putting the 20-25yo trims/moulds/rubbers on a brilliant paint job when restoring a car

So as i said, totally depends on what you want. If you wanted to use the stuff you have now, you'd save such costs but then the body would look like new, yet the plastic/rubber would all be 10-15yrs old, weathered and that type of thing.

You might sand back a panel and find out it's been in some damage, needs repair and all of a sudden you get a $500 extra added on for instance.

I mean some places will just respray the car for $1500 - but don't expect it to be a brilliant job. You will certainly find things you are not happy with, over time the paint can fade/peale tc. But for $1500 you can't complain @ that price.

Only you can decide :)

sorry mate i dont no what you meen by the rubbers and stuff

(were can i get one of these 1500 dollar paintjobs from lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5817705
Share on other sites

sorry mate i dont no what you meen by the rubbers and stuff

(were can i get one of these 1500 dollar paintjobs from lol)

I think he is refering to the window seal rubbers etc, and i'd dare say for a decent spray job your looking at least $5,000 +

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5817765
Share on other sites

I think he is refering to the window seal rubbers etc, and i'd dare say for a decent spray job your looking at least $5,000 +

ok thanks mate,

i wouldnt be looking to replace anything like that (just tape them off accurately)

just a sand, prep, prime ect, paint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5817777
Share on other sites

do you want a closed door respray (one where when you open the door the inside of the doors is a different colour to the outside of the car) or a proper job where inside the doors, boot, bonnet, etc are all done too? this will determine the price. also depends on whether you want it painted with 2-pack or basic acrylic. this will determine how much of a shine the paint has as well as how resistant it is to chipping, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5817918
Share on other sites

well ive got these hard plastic door trim that things say skyline on both doors and there quite large so if i decided to go black, being my car is already a dark blue you wouldnt notice the difference to much, i think it wouldnt look to bad seeing as the paint you dont see when you look at my car is the best looking paint on the car, haha.

and it would suit the style of the interior.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364588-r33-paint-job/#findComment-5818386
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...