Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ive been in the skyline scene for a while now having owned everything from a 1976 prince skyline , R31 , R32 and currently a R33 GTR but im looking for something newer but really dont want to go to another brand so i thought about getting a V35 350GT coupe,

i was wondering how they were on power and how modifiable they were compared to the 350z , i dont really want a 350z as i need 4 seats . just wondering if anyone here has done a supercharger or turbo conversion and costs involved or are people finding good power going the NA route and doing cams headers and extractors :-)

hope to join the ranks soon :-)

bevan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364916-v35-question-before-i-buy/
Share on other sites

I personly havent but i know that cobey is doing it atm, i have spoken to him there is a few other guys around that im sure will chime in here for you. I wanted a 34 to start with but im to tall and my head is in the roof but now i have a V i dont regret it.

The 350Z and the 350GT have the same engine so you can probably also check out the 350z forums.

There is huge following with these cars in the US so G35driver.com is a good source for mods.

But as for all my readings\research, that we can get about 200rwkw NA just from Jap bolt ons.

We can also achieve 250rwkw+ on a max of 9-10psi if you go FI with the engines standard internals. Can't go higher as the compresion is too high.

(Edit) BUT if you've got cash $$$ I've also have read from HPI magazine this Aussie dude putting in a stroker kit combined with a TT and making 500rwkw.

From Factory (besides the weight issue)... I love it. Will be my project car till I am an old man.

Edited by Bourbon Boy

Yeah while they werent big for japanese tuners there is still plenty of good parts from the land of JDM. Engine stuff is pretty well covered since it shares an engine with the 350z and theres suspension components. Not much in the way of chassis bracing but these items are available from usa if you want them. If you like japanese stuff, you can get the greddy twin turbo kit or the HKS supercharger. If you like high compression NA then nismo makes a nice NA head which looses you some capacity but allows very high compression. Then theres the piles of USA brand turbo kits if you want to go that way.

If you want to stay NA well they are typical NA cars and you will see decent gains from bolt ons but need to spend money to achieve anything amazing. Plenty of people boost them with good gains though if you want something crazy, 500hp seems quite easily achievable and keeping it still fairly reliable with any of the jap forced induction kits.

Its a little longer and heavier than the 350z due to the back seats so acceleration and cornering will be very slightly lower however the skyine has a lower drag coeficient than the 350z so should have a higher potential top speed.

power is a lot linear compared to the neck snapping turbo gtr. Heaps of supercharger and TT kits out there for the v35 if you've got an abundance of the folding stuff.

Im in the process of FI mine and will do a nice DIY as usual i can email some prices of what its costing so far if you like

Here is my build list

HKS ST Kit (Part list = http://www.boostcrui...howtopic=694747)

DeatschWerks 600cc injectors

DeatschWerks DW301 pump

Turbo XS UTEC with Map sensor

Turbo Xs Map selector

Turbo Xs Boost solenoid

Turbo Xs Knock light

NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 1 step colder plugs

Zeitronix ZT-2 + LCD for wideband, A/F, EGT etc

Tuning Moding piping

Koyo Racing Radiator with 2x Spel 12" Fans

Pivot Speed Meter V

+ TUNING - allow at least $800 to $1500

+ Pipe mods as the HLS requires some minor bends and extensions..

To free up Flow in exhaust

I have

3" Fujitsubo Legalis R

3" Megan HR Y-pipe

To handle that power i am also getting/have some

Stopech Slotted Rotors F + R

Stoptech SS Lines F + R

Stoptech Performance Pads F + R

Motul RBF600

BC Racing BR Series Coilovers

Whiteline Sway Bars F + R and Whiteline End links

Edited by R6n350GT

Bevan>>>

I had a cool GTST with 267@the wheels and the turbo is surly missed but I am so happy that I don't have the headaches of this little problem or that one or even lots of money flying out of my pockets.

The G35 is a bing first car and a power secodn kind of a car.

Do not get a G3>>>>try and get a 2009 AWD to boot>>330HP if you can and the 2010 you get the AWD 330HP but the all new IPL models with 350HP.

Check out this tuner shop in Cali, GTM Motorsports and see the kind of power they can get out of these nissan engines>>>then get out of the V35 and the V37 mods

If you do get a V35 and decided to mods lets us know and maybe we can put together a group buy for some gear!!!

B

Hey guys, thanks so much for the input, the V35 is definatly at the top of my list now with the 350Z a distant second, i have since test drove both (the 350z 270kw version) and a 350GT coupe premium, the power diffferece isnt that noticable . so hopefully come the end of june early july ill have one and i can stick around here and chat to you guys alot more :)

i do have one other question, is the wheel offset on the V35 and 350z the same?? i really like the new 370z wheels and woud probably look into getting a set when i buy the car?

Bevan

wheel choice is always a really difficult choice, i was looking at these after market ones but ill have to wait to see what they look like next to the car, but either way i do love them, i would get them in a matt charcol color with a polished lip

post-44556-0-13942200-1306879636_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...