Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ah ok, yeah those Jap springs are ultra-beefy. I bought some second hand adjustable JIC's but when I went to put them in I found one of them had a leaking seal, so I took them back for a refund. I was almost tempted to let the shop fix them for free (which they offered), but then they were telling me about how hard the ride would be and stuff, so they effectively talked themselves out of a sale :D I don't like harsh rides at all, I prefer to use sway bars to control body roll.

Anyway, good to hear you got it all sorted, and I'm glad that the lever method didn't wreck your seat :)

hmm i think i'll have to try and use this seat removal method. theres this loud clunking noise coming from the rear left everytime i take a corner. sounds like it kinda slides a bit, wen i enter the corner i hear it move and then wen i come out i can hear it move back. first i thought the jack at the back was lose, but the noise was still there after i secured it. so i figure it must be something between the backseat and the boot.

not sure what it could be coz i've never removed the seat, but i'm assuming its something metal. any ideas?

If it's REALLY loud, it could be the top of your bump stop hitting up against the mounting on the car or the stud snapping/stripping off or something. I got a really loud noise like that every now and then when I hit a bump, and when I pulled the seat out I found that one of the studs had broken because I overtightened it. I don't actually know what the noise was exactly but it was something to do with that. When I replaced the broken stud the noise stopped.

If it's not too loud it could be your missing central seat belt rattling around under the seat? :D Either way it's no big task to pull the seat out and put it back together, just set yourself a spare half hour or so to work it all out and do the job.

One problem I did have - when I removed the shocks/spring combination, using spring compressors, I tried to take the top bit off the shocks, to release the spring (basically wanted to test the shock with the spring off) - There's a12mm (i think) nut on the top of the shock - you need a shifter to stop the shock from turning when taking the top 12mm nut off the top of the shock - However, my bl00dy nut was on so tight I busted the top bit (that the shifter was holding) off the top of my shock - Now i'll never b able to take the spring off the shock. (Maybe with an angle grinder). May be a good excuse to get whole new back suspension ???

if you use a 1/2 inch impact gun (Pneumatic/electric) you will be able to remove the nut! there the same tools you see racecar mechanics removing the wheels from the racecar! the action of the impact gun moves so fast that the shaft hardly gets the chance to move!(have snaped the same thing on a customers car and had to use impact gun!)Most mechanics use Pneumatic tools for this reason and because it speeds up the job!!

This is the easiest way that I know to remove the nut with out useing a grinder!!! :confused:

MEGA

P.s now all you need to do is find someone with a compessor and impact gun that you can use/borrow when you do the job!(or you could take the strut to them!!)

well, i got my backseats out today... just put one hand under each side and lifted. Came out easily.. maybe it helps that the seatbelts were only put in 2days ago, so they have already recently pulled out.

I also have "noisy" tanabe suspension. Brendanf, how do i remove it.. and where do I buy these spring compressors from?

Dave.

damn, after all that work i couldn't find anything lose there... all there was was a cable which lead to the stacker and i sticky taped that down hehe. but it wasn't the cable making the noise, it sounds like some metal, sliding across wen i turn. oh, and i don't have a cetre seatbelt.

after i unscrewed the two bolts i tried to lift the seat up and it wouldn't bulge, so i came back in the house and read this thread again and pulled out the big screw driver and got it done.

next im going to take apart the inside door panels, ever since the bloody guy installed my alarm i've rattling all over the place coming from both doors. hope thats not too hard.

Dave, the rear suspension is easy to take out.

1) Remove rear seat

2) Remove parcel shelf

3) Jack up the rear of the car

4) Undo two nuts at top of strut tower

5) Undo large nut at bottom of shock

6) Slide the bottom of the shock off the mount

7) Carefully remove the whole strut unit

You can get spring compressors at any auto shop, they are quite cheap.

HOWEVER, after I removed all my suspenmsion, cleaned it, greased it yup with vaso - the noise came back.

Dave, let me know if you come up with a fix.

Also, is your noise only at low speed and very small bumps ??

Cheers,

You probably also have to remove the rear wheels, although that could have just been because I have 17x9's on the back of mine.

Also if you have factory suspension or Bilstein/Whiteline suspension, you don't need a spring compressor (this is just info for anyone that has factory or Whiteline coils). You just have to put moderate pressure on the top using some of your bodyweight when installing or removing the top plates.

Haha I actually tried removing the suspension with the wheels in place and I *almost* had it, but in the end there was just no way so I took the wheels off. I'm the kind of person who will spend 15 minutes trying to do something that could have been done in 30 seconds if I'd spent 2 minutes doing that extra bit first. I can't work out if I just want to see if it's possible for future reference or if I'm just lazy in a really stupid and counter-productive way.

  • 2 months later...

I've got the back seats out of my R33 but I can't figure out how to get the parcel shelf out.

From the boot I can see two large white clip things (the ones if you squeeze them they SHOULD fit through a hole). I also see some smaller grey ones.

There are two bolts i guess holding the rear speakers as well.

What method should I use to replace my factory rear speakers? I'm damned if I can make any progress on those white clips. It seems you need the fingers of a pigme to get at anything in the boot.

Help needed.

Mark

The parcel shelf if i remember correctly is held down by 2/3 clips

arond the middle and also held in by the plastic panels on the

side. Once you unclip the middle ones you kinda bend the

parcel shelf upwards and then you will be able to take it out.

It's not any easy task i must admit but you will eventually

get it. I've done this twice, changed my shocks and rear

speakers.

Xrsist, your reply came too late.

I gave up on being delicate and gave it a yank which solved my problem.

My next problem is that my new 6" speakers dont conform to the factory mounts. I might be able to get away with using 3 screws with the factory mount. Will this be ok or will I have to make a custom mount for it?

I wonder if I can make a custom mount with a pair of sissors or knife because I dont have a saw.

Mark

ah cmon man!

buy a piece of mdf bigger than the parcel shelf it self,

Lay the parcel shelf down on top of mdf, trace with lead pencil

break out the jigsaw!!

Smack some carpet onto it,

whack the speakers and HO CHI MINH's your uncle!

hahah

DOnnie :D

seriously. its quite easy :D

I must admit, I stuffed up the original parcel shelf while giving it a yank. Both left and right extremes where it looks like there was a slot cut in the board are no long. They have now been destroyed.

How can I make a new one without any tools or money? Might have an old rust hacksaw blade though...

Mark

  • 5 years later...

i know when i was taking the rear seats out of mine i was so confused. i took out the 2 bolts a the seat wouldn't come out so i pulled the back of the bottom back seat up from under the upper part of the back seat and i saw these to plastic clips holding the seat down so i used a big flat head screw driver and popped those two F***ers out (the bottom of the back seat bent back like perfect.). then the top half of the back seat has two screws which are visible and three hooks behind you need to lift and then pull away.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...