Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I changed my gearbox oil recently and there was a fair bit of shredded metal in it. If this is an indication that my box is on its way out, what's the best way to go about fixing it after it blows? I'd rather fix it than buy a 2nd hand one, which may be in the same condition as the one I'm replacing.

Should I pull it apart and just replace the worn/broken bits, or do the whole lot? I can probably do the work myself if I had a workshop manual with proper torque settings for the bolts etc, but if not I think I'd better get a transmission place to do it. Are there any decent transmission places in Sydney that could rebuild it for me for not too much money?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/
Share on other sites

When you say a fair bit of shredded metal, how much are we talking...

The reason I ask, is because the gearbox plug is magnetised, and as such all the metal shards tend to stick to it.

It's not necessary a sign that your box is on the way out, just general wear and tear!

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59991
Share on other sites

Hmm, don't really know how to quantify it :rolleyes: A few grams maybe? Enough to fit in your hand but not a handful. I've thrown it all out so I'm relying on my dodgy memory. Touch wood that it's not about to die, I was just trying to figure out what to do should the worst case happen. Synchro's are a little worn on 2nd and 3rd, but I've got some Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-59999
Share on other sites

I don't think it had ever been changed. The service manual specifies 100,000km for "business" use, or *never* for private use! :eek: It's done about 88000km so far, so I guess it may not be an extraordinarily large amount of metal to come out after that time.

Anyway the issue isn't whether or not it's about to die (some boxes with no symptoms of wearing out still blow) but what I should do if it happens. I'd rather know what to do before it blows then try to find out after the event :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60006
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

Redline oil in there now which should hopefully improve things.

G'day Jimx,

Which Redline are you using? Any noticeable improvements since switching to Redline in the box?

The reason I ask is, I too use Redline (in the diff) & am about to try "Shockproof" in my box.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60758
Share on other sites

So far it's stopped crunching going into 5th, but it still crunches slightly going into 2nd and 3rd until the oil warms up. When everything's warm then there's no crunch at all. Apparently after a few weeks it's meant to improve some more, but I've only had it in the car less than a week before I had the accident, so I'll have to wait until I get it back from the workshop before I can see how it goes from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3656-r33-gearbox/#findComment-60785
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...