Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20Det Motor, Metal Headgasket, Complete

88cameron88
 Share

Recommended Posts

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
Posted

I have an rb20det motor, complete. Over $5000 in receipts for engine work by previous owner, has metal headgasket.

comes with stock turbo, computer

needs new exhaust manifold studs.

$500 as is

or $600 with exhaust studs repaired

newcastle, nsw

cameron

0415108348

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

obviously there was more work then that done joel.

we charge a minimum of $1000 to remove and replace an engine at my work so you can see how quickly costs add up when you include the labour involved in pulling the engine down, machining head, fitting full VRS kit among other parts, including head service, sourcing and buying second hand head.

the previous owner was not ripped off, if you actually read the receipts which will come with motor.

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

whats with everyone talking about the receipts that came with the motor i have?

wouldnt buy u parts and labour to build a forged motor buddy!!!! it might buy u a second hand forged motor, or just the parts.

i just rebuilt an ej25 with all standard parts. and the bill was $6000.

seems to be a lot of people on here with no idea!

br4dl3y Apprentice

br4dl3y

Posted
Posted

Or instead of expressing your silly opinions just reply to the fs advert like a normal person. If there is something you are not sure about just ask the seller, there is no need to be dicks and leave stupid coments. Like the guy said : remove and strip engine, source new head, machine said new head, buy gasket, fit, head service, put engine together and back into vehicle. Now run your own business paying staff, over heads and not doing it on the cheap and nasty and come up with a better price. The reciepts are there AS receipts, if the guy who was paying thought he was being ripped do you think maybe he would have questioned them?? Sounds like a good deal to me.

Good luck with the sale Cameron.

boostin31 Enthusiast

boostin31

Posted
Posted (edited)

obviously there was more work then that done joel.

we charge a minimum of $1000 to remove and replace an engine at my work so you can see how quickly costs add up when you include the labour involved in pulling the engine down, machining head, fitting full VRS kit among other parts, including head service, sourcing and buying second hand head.

the previous owner was not ripped off, if you actually read the receipts which will come with motor.

$1000 dollars to remove an entire engine to replace a head? Why did the engine need to be pulled? $5000 to fit a reco head is ridiculous, especially for an rb20.

And then sell it for $500. Definately sounds like someone got ripped.

Edited by boostin31
88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the decent input brad. Cheers.

I work in a small mechanical establishment and i know that for the work done, the previous owner was not overhcagred, not that it has anything to do with the sale of my motor anyway!!

Im not sure on the km/s on motor but i believe it to be around 130k from odometer records.

I have not compression tested, with a gt3540 turbo the motor was making 240kw, i have dynos sheets for that. so it must be reasonably healthy to pull good numbers.

I can send pictures via text, so if you give me your number i will send you some

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

$1000 dollars to remove an entire engine to replace a head? Why did the engine need to be pulled? $5000 to fit a reco head is ridiculous, especially for an rb20.

And then sell it for $500. Definately sounds like someone got ripped.

and sounds to me as someone is making a fool of themselves as they dont know what theyre on about!!!!!!!

im selling motor for $500 as thats a good price to get rid of the motor, i have sold rb20's before at this price, it cost me nothing to get as it came to me as part of a deal.

so please gtfo out of my thread as ur useless comments arent wanted by anyone here with any idea

boostin31 Enthusiast

boostin31

Posted
Posted

Wow it had a 35/40 on it? Sounds like someone else really had no idea...

Im just saying that saying it had $5000 worth of receipts and then not stating what work had been done to the motor is pretty useless, you just gave a vauge description and said it had a metal headgasket.

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dead set, you just cant help dumb!

get the f**k out of the thread cos your comments have nothing to do with the sale of the motor, if you wanna whinge about someones turbo choices f**k off to the members rides section!

so what? dont buy it then!

you will find out the details of the receipts if you take a "serious" interest in buying the motor not making smart arse comments in the thread.

now piss off!

GTEES Proficient

GTEES

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the decent input brad. Cheers.

I work in a small mechanical establishment and i know that for the work done, the previous owner was not overhcagred, not that it has anything to do with the sale of my motor anyway!!

Im not sure on the km/s on motor but i believe it to be around 130k from odometer records.

I have not compression tested, with a gt3540 turbo the motor was making 240kw, i have dynos sheets for that. so it must be reasonably healthy to pull good numbers.

I can send pictures via text, so if you give me your number i will send you some

0408391831

cheers

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

there are some deadset dickheads out there arent there! lol

got 3 or 4 people keen on the motor but no ones shown up with the cash yet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...