Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My rear subframe sits about 15mm to the right hand side, I know a few R33 have the same problem and i have been told you can fix it with new bushes but also been told there is no fix.

Just wondering if i throw a 10mm spacer on the left side to make it look even will it throw anything out?

my aligntment is fine and car has never been in a crash.

post-54283-0-12418800-1307083974_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-91435100-1307083983_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366596-r33-rear-subframe/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Spacers are illegal no!.

so if you have an accident and get cought with it on you car then good by insurance .

If subframe sits offset then wouldn't you have at least 15+mm of play in subframe movement L&R.

Handle poorly, wanders etc.

try turning corner in direction that should shift frame to opposite side and park before straightining up and check to see if its moved, chances are it will be the same though as it's proberly setteled there.

put it under pressure driving and I'd safely bet it's moving around.

sounds like time for a bush freshen up, have someone quailfied you trust to take a look at it

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Alloy.

The alloy bushes will lock the old bushes into the correct position which will fix your problem if it is related to the mis-alignment or degradation of the old bushes

The poly pineapples don't lock the old bushes into place they just apply pressure to them and to be honest don't really acheive much at all.

I got a nice set of alloy bushes off fleabay for $50 (cheaper than poly pineapples) and they can be easliy fitted in an hour (there are some good DIY threads in that section)

Good luck with it.

  • 1 month later...

I thought about alloy locks but woll that make it too stiff for a daily?

If you have crazy stiff jap coil overs, then yes maybe. If you have decent quality shocks and springs, then it shouldnt be too bad... Its what i had to do :) at the same time of fitting alloy bushes, i also put in a rear strut brace, tied in the rear nicely.

yeah I think im going to try them, are there any particular brand or are they all the same? i found a set local for $90. I have 8kg rear springs with strut brace and gtr sway bar so hopefully its not too bad, if it is ill get used to it anyway.

Nah still no fix, a few people have changed wheel aligner and that helped but mine is too far off to be alignment.

Mine looks the same with 9.5" rears +38. One flush on one side and the other sunk.

I thought my rear ride height wasn't equal so I went back to a suspension shop and eventually we noticed under the car that the cradle looked all tightened to one side, so the guy tried loosening off a few major bolts and prying it back the other way but it didn't budge. I suppose you'd have to undo it a lot more to move it level on both sides.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...