Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, cheers from Calgary, Canada! its my first post on this site so go easy on me :) I have a 92 gtst with the standard rb20det. to keep the long story short it misses in high rpms ONLY under boost.

I have pretty much tried everything, taken it to many places yet no solution. When i first got the car 2 years ago the throttle was very jumpy and overly sensitive. So that turned out to be my tps being set at 0.11 and Cas was turned completely CWW. And that time it was running fine but felt like there was no top end power after 5k. After the tps adjustment and CAS being set at 15. Car feels like it has more power up until u hit 4k it just sputters and bogs.

However if u just tap the gas and wait for the rpms to climb slowly it does it with no hesitation.

Here is the list of things I have done so far:

-changed the plugs to ngks irridiums last september gapped at 0.8mm (re chaecked them and they are still ok)

-Changed fuel filter and fuel pump with walbro 255

-cleaned maf with sensor clean (helped with response but problem still there)

-Octane booster, seafoam

-set tps at 0.46v ( made the the car idle at 1200 rpm.....)

-checked coil packs, visually they seem to be fine

Any suggestions??????

Thanks

I use 94 octane thats the highest octane we can get here :(

I will be trying to tape up my coils and recheck them. I hear just using a multimeter isnt enough to tell whether they are bad or not!

I will also try using some copper core and re gap them for to test and see if it helps.

Keep u guys informed thanks for the replies!!!!

I have noticed another thing recently too, seems to miss in lower rpms a bit when the engine is fully warmed up after like 20 mins of driving.....could that definately be my coils then?

I use 94 octane thats the highest octane we can get here :(

I will be trying to tape up my coils and recheck them. I hear just using a multimeter isnt enough to tell whether they are bad or not!

I will also try using some copper core and re gap them for to test and see if it helps.

Keep u guys informed thanks for the replies!!!!

That could also be your problem. Over here, we generally run ours on 98 octane.

get copper plugs and regap to 7mm then try it. If the problem persists then use quality electrical tape to insulate around the block part of the coilpack. Or even better, use a heat resistant silicon in the crack on the block part. There was a thread about the silicon but I can't find it.

tape and silicone worked a treat on mine. but mine had the stutter only when cold in winter when you hit it getting onto a highway.

any basic silicone will stand more than enough heat for where the coil packs sit. smear a bit on each coil, wrap em up with good electrical tape and your off (if of coarse this is the problem)

Edited by boiracer

I will be using silicone tomorrow and retape the boots and see if that solves the problem. I also read that if u relocate the ignitor that sits on top of the plug cover helps because that tends to overheat and fail, has anyone tried yet?

ITS FIXXEDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD :):worship::banana:

changed the plugs to copper cores gapped at 0.8mm and siliconed the base of coils, taped the rubber boots on the coil packs.

it purs in high rpms!!! i havent hit 6k on this car in sooooo long!!!!

THANKSSSS GUYS i hope this helps others with similar problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...