Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 180
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well all the normal stuff appears to check out OK, I think Ross checked the fuel pump too.

The gaps in insulation on the wires of the CAS plug didn't fill me with a lot of confidence.. neither did the butchery at the ECU plug end!

ok well dat suck's well at least u know thow's bits work

well it's worth a try changing it over. see if u can find some1 with a spare loom and ecu.

if all good then u can buy with out worrying about wasting money.

what ever it is i think its some sort of electrical prob. just going to take time to work out

Well all the normal stuff appears to check out OK, I think Ross checked the fuel pump too.

The gaps in insulation on the wires of the CAS plug didn't fill me with a lot of confidence.. neither did the butchery at the ECU plug end!

the pump was priming but i didnt check fuel pressure, dont have a gauge.

its just one of those fun electrical problems :rolleyes:

Shame about the fuel pressure test, I still think it is a poor earth with the FPCM (fuel pressure control module).

Especially if the looms have been butchered.

Solder/twist on a wire from the fuel pump earth to the body of the car and let me know what happens so i can sleep easier :P

bogan way of testing if fuel pressure is causing the problem (assuming theres plenty of flow from the pump) is to slowly clamp the return line with some pliers (fat ones so you dont damage the line) and see if it improves.

otherwise theres a fairly cheap fuel pressure gauge on just jap that'll come in handy more than you think. i'd lend you myne but some prick smashed it up

Well I dunno, I just resealed the four split wires and took the bigass battery outa my V8 to try but still no good.. I can't help but think we'v overlooked an important factor, when the keys are turned to 'power' in the ignition, u don't hear the fuel pump prime, or if it is, it's alot quieter. Back in the day(a few weeks ago) you would hear it buzz loudly for a good 4 or 5 seconds. What could this mean?

Oh, and it's got worse, Mike. A struggle to even start now.. :'(

Edited by V8or4X4

I havnt tried swapping a working fuel pump in yet, knight. I also better stress the problem has taken the car from fine to unstartable in the space of 12minutes gentle running time. :s

It turns over and after 6ish seconds it starts coughing like it wants to start, a few secs later it might start and as Bubba said, runs like a tractor..

I would try pump. it sounds like it might not be getting fuel.

My stagea dose not like starting first time in the morning and i am shore its to do with low fuel pres. When i started it in the morning it would fire and run but run like it was missing or not getting enough fuel then stall. after i start it again or give it a rev it comes good.

So i have fitted a 040 and it is a little better but still run's bad for about 10 sec's before the rev's pick up. I have a hks fuel reg i will be fitting soon as 1 of the stock 1s might be bad

runs like a tractor maby it thinks its a sr lol

Edited by whitenight27

I havnt tried swapping a working fuel pump in yet, knight. I also better stress the problem has taken the car from fine to unstartable in the space of 12minutes gentle running time. :s

It turns over and after 6ish seconds it starts coughing like it wants to start, a few secs later it might start and as Bubba said, runs like a tractor..

It could be the fuel pump itself or it could be the wiring the ECU to the FPCM.. the exposed copper near the ECU was worrying.. as was the exposed copper on the CAS wires..

How'd you go fixing the wires Jesse? I wouldn't bother chasing other things like actual fuel pump etc until you know the wiring is all good..

how did you fix the wire? just put tape over them? The thing you need to check is if the cover is cracked that the copper inside is not as well. If may look fine but use the multimeter to double check.

Again more than happy to help but with weather and stuff need to do it in a shed as we will remove alot of stuff from the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...