Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, just a heads-up, warning and request all in one.

Recently a few issues have come to light with the amount of nicknames a group of us (who know each other very well) call each other.

Now I have not had a problem with any of it until now, but from both a personal respect and website/SAU:SA club policy, I feel we need to set a firm policy on this.

So, as of NOW, I want everyone to completely stop any nickname which ANYONE could find offensive - whether it be regarding their skin colour, hair colour, previous behaviour or any other reason anyone might take offence. 1 warning will be given to offenders, then they get a ban from the forums. If someone PMs me and says they are offended by an individual, I will act on it.

I know in the past it has all been in good fun, but as of now it is no longer ok.

I get that this can be a serious issue, but come on guys, I havent heard someone have to give a talk like that since primary school. I believe a teaspoon of cement and grain of salt is in order.

I find it offensive and ignorance when people use the term "Jap". Many dont mean anything by it but it is rude and you wouldnt want to use the term when speaking to a Japanese. I know this is an abreviation but always found it rude. Instead use the full term or JP for short.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...