Jump to content
SAU Community

What a change of career!!

RevsPerMin

By RevsPerMin,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
shannon Enthusiast

shannon

Posted
Posted

just a quick question for any of the lads @ RPM ..

i have an R33 , pretty much stock as , apart from a k&N air filter and an exhaust.

my question is , i have a TO4 here (not totally sure on specs so im making this harder than it has to be) and im thinking of putting it on to get a few more rwkw's as im pretty bored with the car as is.

what would the approx cost be to install it, and what would have to be done ...eg , manifold / fuel pump / larger injectors....etc

sorry its such an open question, and i have so little info but im just trying to get a rough idea of what the cost will be. if you need any extra info pls let me know:burnout:

cheers

shannon

oh PS .. joel , where did ya get your windows tinted and what did it cost ya? just got mine done and was curious to know if i got a good deal... :D

Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted

I am currently putting a T04 on my 32 and try and help you, your turbo probably dosent have a wastegate so you will need an external one, depending on the size of the turbo you may be able to modify the stock exhaust manifold to suit, a wastegate will cost about $650 for a new one and to get the manifold done will be about $400 ( im only guessing on this as i did mine myself on my labour is free).

You really need to have the turbo looked at to see if it is worth doing, the one i got was fairly small so it shouldnt be to laggy.

You will need a fuel pump, and your injectors will max out after about 220rwkw. The you need some sort of management either a power fc or microtech plug in which rpm does or one of the hundreds of other ECU's.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I had mine done at Instant Windscreens.

It cost $250 for 35% all round.

It is a metallic tint or somthing that has a lifetime warranty.

It looks good but i'm not happy with the way they did the passengers window.

I asked them to re do it as they slipped with the knife obviously then on the fix the again slipped with the knife right down the bottom so you cant really see it luckly (The gap).

Apart from that the job looks real nice.

Shannon with regards to your Turbo you will have to get some sort of fuel computer for u'r 33 or even RPm's microtech.

With the std turbo freebaggin made just over 200rwkw, with lots of second gear tyre frying action. :D

He has a fmic but..

I have RPM's FMIC and it is nice and tidy, hidden well and works well. :)

But i don't like to show off the bits i have i prefer the Sleeper look :)

shannon Enthusiast

shannon

Posted
Posted

hey clint ,

let me know how you go mate .... very keen to see how it turns out. yeah i was gonna get someone to look over it, make sure its in good enuff condition and make sure it is suitable (i know f@ck all about TO4's and what types are best suited to what) i bought it off a mate that was gonna use it on a Vl turbo (G Force if you seen it round) so i thought coz its a similar engine it could be suitable

it doesnt have an external wastegate, so your right i will be needing one of em , want any experiance on doing another manifold?? lol!!

do you know of any fuel pumps that will do ther trick , will bosch ones that everyone one uses do the trick? .. also do you know of a cost on the pump and injectors?

would a pigy back comp do the job? shame the stocky comp cant just be re programmed.

sorry for all the questions :D

joel,

i got 20% tint .. metallic , lifetime warantee etc. got the car done for $200 so i guess i didnt do too bad.

what did the fmic cost ya bud?

cheers again

shannon

RevsPerMin Contributor

RevsPerMin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Shannon,

Please pm me at [email protected] with your contact no. I'll ring you asap tomorrow morn of you like.

I have some prices for you in regards to the wastegate, manifold, an extra injector and fuel pump etc. U will not be dissapointed:)

BTW I was just speaking to the SA distributer of Haltech ECU and he can do me a good price for the newly released E-11 unit.

But yeah, the Microtech would be the more popular one at the moment.

Thanks,

Ivan.

RevsPerMin Contributor

RevsPerMin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Clint,

This is gonna be the latest reply Ive ever made to anyone. Regarding the springs it went well. I actually sold it to someone for a profit, which is unbelievable, because I wasnt even planning to sell it and he offered me $200. Apparently he needed it to go past Regency as well so I didnt refuse. But it is justified in a way because the guy was buying and selling GTRs for a profit.

Ivan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • CefiroA31
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By CefiroA31 · Posted

      Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...