Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

drift_skills_flyer_2011_final.jpg

Victorian Drift Club - DRIFT SKILLS

~ Saturday 9th of July 2011 ~

This is an OPEN event for all (VDC membership not required)

Format:

- Beginners day at the DECA Skidpan

- 3 classes of 15 students

- Rotate through drifting basics such as controlled donut, controlled figure 8 and handbrake maneuvers

- Class runs from 9-5, with 1hr catered lunch provided

- 2 instructors per group

- Drivers must arrive by 8AM to begin registration, scrutineering and drivers briefing

Location

DECA Skidpan

145 Wanganui Rd

Shepparaton

Victoria

This event is NOT open for spectators, strictly drivers and pit crew only. Vehicles cannot carry any passengers with the exception of the Instructors

Driver Prices: $229 (covers entry fee and lunch)

ENTRIES NOW OPEN

Please go to following link to register online : http://vicdrift.com/site/index.php?option=com_dtregister

PRE-ENTRY and PRE-PAY is COMPULSORY AT ALL VICDRIFT EVENTS. ENTRIES CAPPED AT 45 drivers

CANCELLATIONS : We require notice via EMAIL to [email protected] by 8AM of the Thursday prior to the event, or you will forfeit your entry fee. For this event we require notice by 8AM 7th of July. We have been running this system since 2010, no excuses. If you miss the cut off you will not be given a refund.

Acceptable Licenses are: AASA or Cams L2NS - No license means no going on the track!

On the day purchase of AASA license:

AASA license $50

(Can be purchased at driver registration on the morning of the drift day. This needs to be done before you come into the scrutineering bay to register and have your car scrutineered as entries will not be accepted without proof of license or receipt of payment)

Please note : VDC board members will be checking aasa and cams licenses, this year we will be checking everyone. Please ensure all your licenses and memberships are valid.

The usual requirements as always are:

*Long sleeve and long pants of non flammable materials i.e. No Nylon

*Closed footwear

*Helmet that complies to Australian Standards (has ASA or Snell Sticker)

*Car needs to be in a good condition, no oil leaks, no loose items in the car and battery secure. It must pass scrutineering to be allowed on the track!

*Working seat belt/s (give it a pull and make sure it locks)

* Every car must have the correct amount of wheel nuts:wheel studs. Get it right before you get to the track!

* All cars must run some form of muffler/resonator/catalytic converter on their car. You only have to run one of the mentioned forms of a spark arrester.

* All forms of wastegates on turbocharged vehicles are ALLOWED

* All cars must ensure their exhaust exits past the perimeter of the car, "dropped pipes" are NOT ALLOWED

Basic Scrutineering Guide can be found here:

http://www.vicdrift.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=674

* FIRE EXTINGUISHERS ARE COMPULSORY AND MUST BE FITTED CORRECTLY IN THE CAR AND WITHIN EASY REACH OF THE DRIVER!

Can't make this one, see below for the rest of 2011 events:

http://www.vicdrift.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1104

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367542-drift-skillz-learn-to-drift/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

would be keen for this IF my car was capable of sliding

You have an R32 GTS as in your profile? You can slide that no problem. ;)

My track car is an R31 and that tears it up! I also have an R32 GTS-25 that drifts no problem.

Get out there and try it!

5846642019_c4a94c3b31_b.jpg

No, you really have to drive Alex's car...it's incapable of sliding lol. Even the handbrake fails!!!

nah its completely capable now birds, put coilys in and hicas lock bar, the only thing that i need to slide is to weld my diff, which will be done very soon :thumbsup:

handbrake is nice and tightened up too!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...